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What form of climbing do you enjoy the most?
Free climbing 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Aid climbing 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Trad climbing 47%  47%  [ 7 ]
Sport climbing 53%  53%  [ 8 ]
Bouldering 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Top rope 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
D.W.S 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Total votes : 15
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:55 pm
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Location: Kloof, Durban
Real Name: Luke Davis
Hey fellow climbers. During tradathon me and my partners climbed Utopia at Monteseel and it was very scary. Now thinking about how scary it was I asked the question:" How scary was it in turms of the other climbs in KZN?" I know its the scariest climb as a whole that I have ever done personally.(Only C.T. beats it but that is because we had some interesting events during the climb and not due to the climb itself.) And now I want to find out how high ranked it is among the climbing community in turms of "scariness". So climbers, what are your top 5 scariest climbs in KZN and top 5 in SA?
Mine:
KZN:
1) Utopia at Monteseel
2) Frail illusion at old baldy
3) Total Anarchy at boneyard (kloof)
4) Horizontal at Monteseel
5) Pendulum at Monteseel

S.A.
1) Taking down the lion at lions head in C.T.
2) Utopia at Monteseel
3) Frail illusion at old baldy
4) Total Anarchy at boneyard (kloof)
5) Platypus on spearhead at Swinburn

Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 5:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 167
Total Anarchy is on bolts? Why so scary? I don't have a list, cos I don't get scared (lie, I don't trad much)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 279
The irony...

I once did a climbing "Exam" at Monteseel and the guide who was giving me the exam chose Utopia as my on- sight climb. Needless to say I never worried about whether it was scary or not but somewhere on the traverse I got my ropes crossed. Overall I think the climb went well, I erred on the side of over protecting and thought that I was a winner. Sadly the guide did not agree. So to me it was just another trad climb...

When I went to the Tradathon I was a bit surprised that everyone wasn't so keen to jump on to this classic...

Fear is subjective and what is terrifying for some of us is not even felt by others, so before everyone climbs into you I say "great - you did it- you felt the fear and overcame - that is the spirit of climbing!"

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
a cool idea but i think it is super subjective and dependent on the climber's headspace and ability, as well as the setting - "oceans of fear" anyone? generally i find all "R" rated trad routes shit scary if it is at my limit and just stay away from anything "X"-rated.

few bolted lines have that real scary factor, although, given the grade i have yet to experience anything as intimidating as judge dredd (22 muhahaha!) at hellfire. but if you climb much harder grades it would probably feel safe and easy.....


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 615
Real Name: Warren Gans
Fun Topic! But a little broad, and it may be better to say what are the scariest Boulder, Sport and Trad routes. Some routes at Atom Smasher Crag was bolted old school, with bolts only there to save the ground fall, so the last bolt would be just over halfway up the wall. I've done Platapus, but I would not include it in the top 5 scary sport routes. What about Stone Biter at Boneyard? The problem with both these Boneyard routes is they were bolted to augment trad placements as well. Most scary sport routes are simply badly bolted, Otherwise the only obvious possibility is exposure, and then some tenuous swinging erete mulitpitch should take it, maybe granite.

Some leadout granite slabs of crumbly rock?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
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Real Name: Jonathan
Very subjective. With no qualification of what constitutes a route - the answer will be a list of 5 overhanging crumbly very high cliffs with no bolts or possible trad placements thus requiring free soloing. The roof of Cannibal Cave at RNNP would be a good example of what I mean.

But assuming that a "route" has to have been actually climbed by someone on lead at some stage to be called a route, that would narrow the range a lot...

Surely for scariest in KZN it would have to go to Berg routes. One of ClimbZA's esteemed members recently told me about the time he climbed one of the Ifidi Pinnacles. Any climb with a pitch that has only 1 piece followed by 2 pitches with no gear (not even anchors for belay) will always be ultra-scary.

Then you get routes like Not-So-Auto, some of the routes on the Injisuthi Triplets, even the pitches on Hilton Pass (has 3 possibly avoidable waterfalls on rotten rock - I haven't done this route though) - it really depends on what you find scary.

That Lammergeier route on the north face of Giant's Castle (H1/A3), Here Be Dragons (H1) on Sentinel (only just in KZN) etc could all be thrown into a list of scary propositions, but it really depends on what constitutes "scary". But if scary can be equated to danger, then I doubt anything at Monteseel would be in the running for the top 5 in KZN.

Ps. let me qualify that remark - on a scale from a shaking leg to needing new underpants, Monteseel can be both scary and dangerous (and perhaps some day I might be good enough at climbing to do a real route at Monteseel, not just the easy stuff), I can't see how a massive crumbly trad only area can be exceeded in scary-ness by a relatively solid and not as high trad venue.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:00 pm 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Ok so we agree that we must therefore ignore routes that are scary because of poor rock.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:03 pm 
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Real Name: Jonathan
I would rate that the video "the sharp end" covered what I would call scary - that first bit with the really tough routes on bad trad gear.

I would say we should further qualify that any route is assumed to be climbed roped and by a competent climber with either an idea of the route or having done the route before. Also assuming that route finding is not an issue - so not like the route description on Fourth Cigar: "a left hand descent of the falls leads to an obvious C traverse and by getting lost in the mist the start of the climb was reached. Climb to the right of a large block up some 30 feet (10m), and 120 feet (40m) of D. A right hand traverse leads to 20 feet (6m) of E and an obvious 80 foot (25m) E chimney to the summit"

Multi-pitch vs single pitch can also make a big difference. Having never done a multi-pitch route, I am by no means the best person to comment on this - but I have walked above high cliffs on narrow ledges before. Definitely scary!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
Posts: 85
Got to disappoint you Luke. The ones you mention are'nt even close. I can give you a list of trouser browners if you want, but I don't want to be there when you try them. As you get more comfotable climbing, your " fear scale" does change. It is awesome you are creating these experiences for yourself. Keep it up but don't push the boat too far yet! As far as the Berg goes, Here Be Dragons is the top of my list. I know I will never, ever get on it again. Great rock, but gear hardly worth a mention.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 601
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Winter climbing scares the crap out of me more than any other form of climbing. Every route I've done in Scotland even at my moderate grades has given me a few shit shit shiiiiiit moments. Thin ice, collaping snow, crap gear, negotiating cornices, getting a bit lost in whiteouts, all while freezing your tits off,


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:13 pm 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Gerald: come to think of it you are responsible for some of the scary KZN routes! Whats the name of that route on the left side of The Lab with the first rusty bolt/peg 7m up and just past the crux?

If ever there was someone to create this list, it has to be Gerald, except he would not classify most of the routes as scary- like the one above

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:32 pm 
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Real Name: Jonathan
Warren G wrote:
...the first rusty bolt/peg 7m up and just past the crux...


I need new underwear just reading that :eye:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:17 pm 
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Its a peg. Who in their right mind would put a 1st bolt so high up? Its only a 3rd of the way up and its not too rusty. No worse than what it was than when I found it!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Most of the trad routes (if not all) the routes on the main Wall of Yellowwood are very scary. Blood is Sweeter than Honey has two R-X pitches. You will get hurt if you fall on the first 19 and the 18 pitch. Prime Time has 3 R pitches that are very scary. Armageddon Time has ground fall potential on the crux pitch. Fantastic Time does not have any R pitches but nevertheless is very intimidating in places. Time Warp is super scary!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Real Name: Guy Paterson-Jones
I think the most terrifying pitch I've ever climbed was at the top of Central Diedre in Du Toits Kloof. As I recall, it felt a bit like trying to climb vertical sand with naught but a rattly peg way down by the belayer :shock: .


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:46 pm 
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The things we do for fun!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:42 pm
Posts: 123
If memory serves my very old age correctly the route " if camels can dyno" or something like that aged this old man by at least 15 years from start to top of the pro friendly route :puker:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:22 pm 
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"If Camels could climb" is necky. (Ask Microbe who did it at the tradathon, and then confirmed his memory that Montees 18's are solid 18's and can be a real test of character/lunacy. There is a direct to "Camels" which makes it very very spicy.

"Then Elephants could Dyno" is right next to it, and makes 'Camels' feel like a top-rope in comparison.
(For Monteseel climbers, it is thoroughly recommended that you have at least 3 "1" Wild country rock size, or something equivalent. usually one on each side of your harness so when you start groping frantically for it you increase your chances of finding it. It is amazing how many cruxes have these pinched little rails that accept them, and often only them. Free ride, Pub Lunch, Sizzle, Angel Dust are one's that spring to mind.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 4:58 pm 
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Agreed Mr Camp! Climbed both and let's say my character was somewhat built :shock:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 8:55 am
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Real Name: aundre schultz
Well, as you all say; subjective and where your headspace is. care to comment on doing all of the trad climbs in the peninsula up to and including grade 13, Tafelberg frontal ,10min behind " Andy Hack " in the Cederberg, Black slab at Rocklands, all on a soft sloppy rope "tight ropes" tend to get me scared bcoz they pull me of ballance , while using only my right hand,( left dont work so kept in my pocket.) Afrikaans saying goes " as jy kan, kan jy maar". Having just as much fun as you. Headspace and passions all you need. Power and glory to the big boys.

be safe
Onehand


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
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Very true - read this in a Rock and Ice as to who the best climber was, and the conclusion was that "The best climber is the one having most fun ".


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Real Name: Mike J
^ That's an Alex Lowe quote.


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