Hi all,

I'm thinking of buying 1/2 ropes sometime in the near future and I'd like to know what peoples personal experience is with different brands and thicknesses. I'm thinking of something relatively inexpensive, 9mm or less (if fact, the thinner the better) and 60m in length. An important attribute for me is a super-durable sheath.

Any brand/model that stands out for anyone?

Sam

I have had two sets of Beal Cobras (8.6mm 60m) over the past 6 years or so and have been relatively happy with them. I find them to be super when they are new but start getting sluggish after a short while when the sheath wears in.
I find the sheath to be fairly durable but having a double pick weave, the fibres tend to snag easily on rock crystals and fraying starts early in the rope's life.
I have also used my ropes for ice climbing and this really buggers the things up.

I will also be looking at new 1/2 ropes soon and my attention is focussing on the Blue Water 8.5mm Excellence. The sheath is a single pick weave and is therefore more tightly bound which should help my early fraying problem. On paper the specs are not as good as the Beal Cobras.
Another consideration is the Beal Pro Mountain 8.8mm which also has a single pick weave on the sheath like the Excellence but looks rather more durable. This rope however needs to be special ordered from the agents so you don't get to feel it up in the store before buying.

If I had the extra money I would go for the Mammut Genesis 8.5mm. A friend of mine has been climbing with one for many years now and it just does not seem to quit. The sheath is a double pick weave like the Cobras but is bound much tighter making the rope more resitant to fray.

With any 1/2 rope, buy only those with a dry treatment, it helps extend the life of the rope through the friction reducing effects.

Thanks for that Gareth.

I'd be interested in a Mammut, but not sure whether one can get them in this country? And obviously cost is a consideration, but if spending a little more means greatly extended rope-life then maybe it's worth it?

I heard that 2 x 50m half ropes are 99% of the time adequit for any route, lenghtwise. Is that true?
'Cause it would make allot more sence to have 10m less rope to carry, or then 20m for two ropes, plus the 50's are cheaper than the 60m.
Why not then buy the cheaper, lighter 2 x
50m halfropes, or does one really need 2 x 60m half ropes?

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you have one mouth, two ears. listen more...

Get yourself a superdry 60m Blue water 8.6mm rope and you won't be sorry. And whoever you climb with gets the other one. I used to swear by Mammut Genesis superdry ropes and I have two of them. The one is now called the puff adder by my friends it has become so thick. Happy to sell them at R800 each as they are still in good nick. But much prefer the Bluewater ropes. After two years they are still slick and I use them all the time. There is one at CityROCK that I had from 1993. Go check it out. It still is in great condition except someone abused it and I had to cut it.

I would expect the blue water agent to say that...

Grrr identify yourself. Who are you? If you are going to make what amounts to disparaging comments on an open forum then have the guts to give your credentials. There is nothing in your profile that suggests who you are. I am not a Blue water agent! I have no partisan or commericial interest whatsover in selling any particular brand of climbing gear. And I certainly personally do not benefit from selling blue water gear. Your comment can only suggest that you have an axe to grind or you have a vested interest in a particular brand.... Stand up and be counted!

Hi SNORT,

Thanks for the input. Interesting to hear that Mammut ropes are not without their faults. Does anyone have any experience with the Beal Verdon? What about the Roca Fanatic?

I think I'll stick to the 60m length for 3 reasons. I hear what is said regarding extra weight, but it's easier to chop 10m at a later stage than to add 10m! I also prefer that extra 10m which may come in handy one day when I'm trying to get down/off something nasty...may save me leaving more gear behind than I would otherwise have to. And lastly, for the small markup between 50m and 60m rope prices, one might as well spend the extra few bob.

Hi Sam,

Here is my 2 cents.

Beal are not so great IMHO - their abrasion resistance is not the best

Bluewater I have only heard very good things about
Mammut I have only heard good things about
Edelrid I have had 3 pairs myself and very happy with them

50m are MORE than adequate, I have never needed a 60m so far and I have tradded in lotsa different places.

Enjoy!
B

I'm looking to buy two 50m half ropes. What would you take between the Beal Cobras (R1540) or the Beal Verdon (R1400)?

I am looking for ropes that last the longest. I would like to climb on these for the next 10 years (or hopefully more). It looks like the Verdon will last a bit longer because of what I've heard and the thicker diameter.
I am not looking for high end stuff. Two jokers are way too expensive for me.

What other half ropes are available in 50m lengths locally and where? I have only tried MMO

Ropes don't last 10 years Dikkie...

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I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

I'm not that much of a weekend warrior like you Brian. I'm more of a scout. I'm not at the "ripping cams" level (yet).

I've climbed with a old traddie on his half ropes that are 25+ years old and they held my fall so I'm pretty confident.

from what I see the difference is R140.
thicker ropes last longer (usually)

peace

Back ground: I have only been climbing trad for 2 years now, about 4 times a week on some occasions. Only taken about 4 falls in that time. I use Mammut Genesis superdry 60m 8.5mm; They still look pretty new.
I was lucky as someone brought them over from Germany!
I have been exclusively been climbing TM/Lion's Head/ Hellfire. I regret getting 60m ones though, as the pitches at these venues are short IMO. I like being efficient, pulling an extra 10m and carrying it is not.
I have only rapped off Staircase/ Fountain ledge side.
After speaking to loads of experienced people re ropes (sport & trad) I will get Edelrid next time, better to support local business!

You are most welcome to buy mine,

Cheers
Cormac

Franz, its actually R280. The price difference isn't that big an issue with these two ropes.

Cormac, what do you want for them? Lots of people swear by Mammut. They sound great

They are great, I just want 50m ropes

I have a pair of PMI Verglas 8.1mm half/twin ropes. They have a full dry coat and have a fantastic hand (tie well). They were slightly more expensive than the Edelrid Shikras but they weigh soooo much less it was worth every cent. I'm very happy with them.

I'd go as thin as you can, especially if you're starting out tradding, where you'll be climbing easier stuff and won't be falling on them so much.

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Happy climbing
Nic