Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

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Hilton
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Hilton »

It was a precious gift that I was given last Saturday.

On a business trip to Johannesburg I hooked up with Hector Pringle and Ian Kotze. At first light we approached the Magaliesburg from the south and parked to walk over the range. The air was fresh and the views toyed with the senses.

Hector set an impossible pace. He waited for Ian and I on the crest of the range. I loved the history lessons concerning the boer war fortifications. We trundled down the north side.

In the early morning we skittled past a tent and down into Upper Tonqani to start the tour. I was pointed to a route that was a joy to sample. The locals came up with the packs and we were off across grasslands with fantastic boulders and campsites.

A descent down a wild west gulch took us into Boulder Kloof. I was pointed to a route that I remember only vaguely. There was something about standing on a dead tree that parted from the wall. I think it was also the place of an over-powering baboon toilet stench. A quick ab and we were off.

Then I had to do the best jamming route in the Magalies. 'Twas very nice with a good trick near the top. A couple of abs saw us on our way down stream to Lower Tonqani. After Hector stripped for a cold naked wade there was nothing left to do than follow.

With a Tyrolean set-up for rope management over the river we had to do the classic of Lower Tonqani. To Ian's amusement I stepped into the stream and had the pleasure of climbing a slippery wall with a non-friction shoe. Another useful tree gave us our exit ticket.

The return upstream had me falling into the frigid pool. Hector led up some slopes of soil, trees and loose stones to the base of a route. His finger pointed up. It was very, very good. Dangerous Dongle or something. A fine leader's route. One of those that you haven't done if you haven't led it. I was a little embarrassed when the locals cruised up at very high speed. A couple of useful trees had us on our way to Cederberg Kloof.

Oh the beauty of the place. Oh the sweetness of the closing act. Bong or something. Not the quality of Dongle-something but very nice nonetheless. The guys confirmed that it was a route of my old buddy Robin. I dropped my screwgate biner and Bug. It followed the abseil route - through a tunnel in the canopy into the stream bed. We weren't to follow. Our route lay over the escarpment into the twilight.

Fine day, finer guys - looking forward to the next act...
mucho gracias buddies
iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by iank »

The pleasure was all ours..

A good day in the kloofs, we had a blast. Hilton next time you come around we're going to Blouberg.

Cheers
Ian
Hector
Posts: 438
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Hector »

Thanks Hilton, was a great day in the hills.
The routes were:
Upper Tonquani: Hyperadrenia (20)
Boulder Kloof: Raging Bull (20) and Sabre (19)
Lower Tonquani: Sands of Time (19) and Doppler Effect (21)
Cedarberg Kloof: Boggle (19)
Hilton
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Hilton »

That Blouberg trip is in my diary!
And I believe we have a Cape Cederberg project for post-Hector-Himalayas?
Meantime, I'll probably swing by next month and two of your routes have my name on them. That route of snorty's that you rate as maybe the best in the Magalies and that route I was keen on - the one with the peapod. Ian and Hector are you willing to take a lame old codger out again?
JonoJ
Posts: 382
Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Location: Cape Town

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by JonoJ »

Sounds like a great day out! Remind me to take my rack up to Jo'burg when I head there in December!
shorti
Posts: 734
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by shorti »

That's an impressive list of routes for one day! I'm happy when I climb only one of them in a day. So you reckon the Doppler Effect is even better than Boggle! Wow, I should try that some time. I was convinced Boggle was the best sub 100m route one could possibly hope for. Another one you should consider adding to your to-climb list is Last Rites - the most bad ass route in Upper Tonquani (that I know off). Anyway, good to hear a Capey enjoyed our precious little piece of heaven.
paddy
Posts: 81
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 4:17 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by paddy »

If I could relocate the Cederberg/Tonquani complex to CT, I would happily do so. To my mind it is the most underappreciated climbing venue in the country.
Richard
Posts: 211
Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 7:56 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Richard »

As a Capey (albeit living in the north at the moment) I must concur with Paddy. Some of the finest technical gems I have ever climbed are in the Magaliesberg. The rock quality, and general ambience, is unsurpassed.
And Hilton, if you are heading back there, or to Blouberg, please drop me a line as I would love to join you guys if possible.
Hector
Posts: 438
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Hector »

Richard, you dont need to wait for Hilton. Drop me a mail (hector at rula .coza) if you keen to head out for a multi-route day. If I'm free I'll be keen.
broccoli
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:45 pm
Real Name: __ __

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by broccoli »

Reading this reminds me of a fine day's climbing I enjoyed with Bob Woods a few years ago (ok more than just a few...) The aim was to score 200 points, where points are scored by adding up the grades of the pitches you climb. We did:

Pam Pom (15 + 19)
Stone Needle (20)
Superramp (21)
Slipstream (18)
Sabre (19)
Boggle (16, 17, 19)
Doppler Effect (21 + 17)

One certainly feels like one has had a day's outing after that. This is only a small sampling of the brilliant routes in the area. There are at least another two dozen that are as good or better. If I remember correctly we had the whole place to ourselves.
iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by iank »

That's a good days climbing. I like the idea of the 200 points system. Keeps you honest about the routes you jump on. We have a goal of doing 8 good routes in a day which more less amounts to the same thing. Would look as follows:

Upper Tonquani: Hyperadrenia (20)
Boulder Kloof: Raging Bull (20),Sabre (19), Slipstream(18)
Lower Tonquani: Sands of Time (19) and Doppler Effect (21)
Cedarberg Kloof: Tigatrix(18), Boggle (19)

And you still have the place to yourself on most days, we saw 2 other people the whole day. In the last 3 days of climbing there, I've seen a total of 5 other people.
Russell Warren
Posts: 249
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 7:25 am
Real Name: Russell Warren
Location: Durban

Re: Magalies - fine climbing, finer guys

Post by Russell Warren »

I haven't climbed any of the harder routes preferring to stick to about 17 or 18, but I have to concur that the ambience and the qulaity of the routes can't be beaten. Hector gave me a list of easy climbs to try a few years ago and I have climbed there 3 times since. A visit to my inlaws in the NW province is incomplete without a trip to Magalies.
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