I posted this link the \"My experience\" thread, which unfortunately is SPAM.

Here you go. Good for pre-season training. Currently 2 weeks into it and taking the strain. Using it to get ripped for Oceans.

http://www.immortal.net.au/climbing/resources/training/workout_from_hell.html

My reply in that thread:

Currently into week 2 of first phase. Still can't do all the excercises without failure at some point, but am getting there. Build it up slow and take breaks if you need to (i.e listen to what your body is telling you) very easy to push too hard and get injured. Started on baby-weights for some exercises (2.5kg), but mostly 5kg - 7.5 for some, and 10kgs for wrist-curls. Have to bench press 20kg - cos that's what the the BAR weighs I use a cross-trainer (running machine thing cos my knees are buggered from riding dirtbikes) and rowing machine (highly recommed it if you can get access to one) for warming up, and down. Plenty of stretching, before, during and after exercises.

The WFH does make you go EINA! and doesn't leave you much time for climbing, but does mean you can eat lots of red meat and drink beer.

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\"When you look into the abyss, the abyss also looks into you\". - Oom Nietzsche

Another update:

About a month now, missed one day last week because I was going to the Lakes district with a buddy of mine who hasn't climbed before. Got up at 04:30 to get to a 500ft easy (diff UK grade) climb called Corvus, in Borrowdale at Raven Crag. Spent a couple of hours of waiting for the rain to stop - the first and some of the upper pitches had water running down them. The rain cleared for a while and so we tried getting up the climb, about halfway up the first pitch I couldn't feel me fingers so we bailed off and buggered of to Castle Crag, where the rain followed us briefly but cleared again. Up a short climb that I deviated from to make it easier as my mate was keeping me on a tight rope and didn't want to push it with him still getting the hang of belaying.

Anyways, back to training. Strangley getting into this, always used to hate gyms - I mean REAL climbers don't do gyms. I always suspected they were a bit camp anyway. I digress... due to weekend, net mooi v*kol sleep. Got to mission mind over matter now. Was tired the rest of the week, but got back into the gym. I think I have hit the wall - upper body aches quite a bit now. Feel better, but eating steak and drinking guiness to beat the sports induced anaemia and keep them proteins up. Cycling alot too. Felt stronger on the indoor climbing wall at the Westway (London), but didn't push it too much, as I spent most of if teaching and spotting my mate - and didn't want to risk injury at this stage. Getting better at the bench presses and only have to rest once or twice now. Learning how to adjust the rest of the free weights better now too. I've put a pull-up bar in my room door-frame as well to complement the rest of the gym exercises. Only problem is that after the last indoor climbing session I had a go on my friends bike (Honda VTR1000 firestorm) and now I want one...

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\"When you look into the abyss, the abyss also looks into you\". - Oom Nietzsche

Best laid plans. Didn't quite manage to get into the third and final phase, due to 1) falling off the motorbike again and breaking ribs, and 2) getting really gatvol at not climbing. Ribs still hurt occassionally when I climb, but taping finger and the strapping the thumb joint where I picked up soft tissue damage in the crash. Small flare up of tedonitis in right elbow - but otherwise no worries. Anyways two weeks off and back at the gym the results are:

- Climbing strongly again, right from the off - don't have to build up strength. Starting again at english 5b+ and 5c (I guess french 6b?) - blocking these indoor probs. Not given the longer routes or leading a serious bash yet. Starting to try the UK 6a probs.
- Feel fitter (mostly due to cycling 20miles a day now), but more importantly have gotten strength back without putting on weight (lost about 4 kilos the last time I checked).
- The workout is worth doing as it really the first phase of conditioning that really buggers you up. After that it is bearable and occassionally enjoyable as you start seeing results.
- Doesn't do much for your grip strength - struggling to lock off on overhangs.

Hope this is off some use to you all.

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\"When you look into the abyss, the abyss also looks into you\". - Oom Nietzsche