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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:39 am
Posts: 3
Real Name: Fiona McIntosh
Several Cape climbing friends have asked for recommendations for where to go this weekend and none of them have heard of Rooiberg. So, at their suggestion, I am posting details. The crag, which has both superb, long sport routes, and loads of trad, is just south of Truitjieskraal (so is a also a good alternative to Krom if you're climbing there). Because it's closer to the Karoo it's drier than the other Cederberg crags so given that rain is forecast it might be a good one! There's plenty of camping, and cottages, and the owners, Steven & Louise are great. It's a particularly good crag for intermediate tradders - I climbed the awesome Swazi Kings (17) on my last visit and it is right up there with Wolfberg lines in that grade. Tel: 027 4822813, info@cederbergexperience.co.za, www.cederbergexperience.co.za. HOTSPOT facility on the farm.
There is a once-off conservation fee of R25.00 per vehicle staying at Nuwerust.
WEATHER FORECAST http://www.yr.no/place/South_Africa/Wes ... _long.html


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Wiki info: http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... y:Rooiberg

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 766
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Second that, the trad is great and the sport is better. Climb the Knights that say "Ni" (18) and the first pitch of Pyramid Scheme. Book of Fun is great too. Several easy to harder sport routes that are really good are clustered together in the middle of the crag are worth doing too.

Check with the owners for details of any new routes. They have hardware if you find a line you like.

We couldn't find any abseil anchors at the top of the crag (or any description of a walk off) so improvised a thread below the really tall cairn. If anyone feels like dragging a drill up to the top and putting one in, that would be great! :thumleft:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm
Posts: 304
Hi all - if anyone is going up there this weekend please give me a shout at 5505359 (w).

Nic I thought the farmer didn't have any more bolts for new routes up there?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am
Posts: 96
Tony's Southern Cederberg book covers Rooiberg well.
R138.
https://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/ind ... uctId=1633


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Andy Davies wrote:
Nic I thought the farmer didn't have any more bolts for new routes up there?


He still had some when I was there in December.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:24 am
Posts: 23
Real Name: Matthew Bickell
The owners keep a pretty up to date topo there (probably the most up to date), which they are very happy to share. The owners seemed very supportive of climbing on their crag, so :thumleft: to them!

It's a good idea to take a helmet along for your belayer, there was a fair amount of rock coming off the wall - but the routes make up for it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:06 pm
Posts: 72
Real Name: Scott Miller
You can abseil the 4 pitch sport line on the far left "40 ounces to freedom" with a single 60m rope.
cheers
Scott


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