OK folks
Sorted the route on top rope on Saturday 5th August . not sure if that counts as a first ascent

but stuff it I cannot take the pain of fist jaming through the crux again...I have lost half the skin off the back of my hands...
\"Hell hath no fury...\" 22 trad (assuming the name has not been used by another route in the extensive guide coming out soon)
Start up the right hand side of the recess (blade goes up left) climb to the roof. Move slightly right onto the arĂȘte and then up to the big roof where you can shake out. Hard move left into the hand jam crack. Get the feet up and hand jam to the lip. Pull through the lip on fist jams (really painful!), reach up right into the right hand crack for a hold. Pull up to the ledge and continue up painkiller to the chains on Anaesthesia.
FA Brent Russell and Hannes Esterhuyse