High-Line Bolting @ Bronkies

Ask. Answer. Discuss. Any bolting related issues.
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KieranKP
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 11:12 am
Real Name: Kieran richards

High-Line Bolting @ Bronkies

Post by KieranKP » Fri May 12, 2017 1:30 pm

Hey Guys, does anyone know what the rules or regulations are for bolting a possible highline at bronkies? Theres a possibility for a short beginners line over the gulley by the bat and the joker. What are some thoughts on putting some anchors there? Are MCSA the right people to contact and will they pass it by the land owner or is that something i need to do personally. Does anyone have any particular grudge against it, i think it will mostly be used by climbers and wouldnt draw too much attention...Thanks 8)

Warren G
Posts: 853
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: High-Line Bolting @ Bronkies

Post by Warren G » Fri May 12, 2017 2:05 pm

My first highline was using anchors as a commercial Tyrolean traverse, there after trad anchors were always my first choice, are trad anchors not possible?

As you are trying to find a beginner line why not rather find one in Magalies? I am certain there are good beginner lines there that require no bolts. I must also confess that highline mentioned above was at a popular sport crag, and it is most disconcerting having spectators watching you walk, its much better when you have the place to yourself, but thats IMHO.

I don't like bolts, and I would be very reluctant to place them unless they are necessary, and if the line would see meaningful traffic. If you must bolt, use glue in and don't rush into placing them. I would not go on the recommendations of this forum fo their placement, but rather discuss the matter directly with area management. You may find MCSA would only sanction them if it was multi-use, and bolted by their own technicians.

Please don't use expansion bolts: they will not last as long, and will damage your gear. Remember the holes you place will be there in a 1000 years.
Sandbagging is a dirty game

KieranKP
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 11:12 am
Real Name: Kieran richards

Re: High-Line Bolting @ Bronkies

Post by KieranKP » Fri May 12, 2017 2:23 pm

Thanks Warren, Im in no rush to bolt it, i wanted some opinions before i did anything as i know its a busy crag and its not "my" crag so therefore i think permission and opinion is good practice. As for being too busy, i think it would be more for climbers who want to dabble in something new or have some other type of fun after a day of climbing. The main reason i thought of bolting is that not everyone has trad gear, especially at bronkies since it is a sport crag, my thought is that having bolted anchors would make it accessible to more people. I do fully understand your point on drilling. For now i think we will sling some boulders and trees and decide once weve got some psych and opinions :thumright

Warren G
Posts: 853
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: High-Line Bolting @ Bronkies

Post by Warren G » Sat May 13, 2017 6:53 am

In my experience if someone just wants "to dabble" they are also unlikely to succeed. Secondly (and, yet I'll concede just as cynically as the first point) the chances are they also won't have the gear one needs to rig highlines anyway: steel biners are not part of sport climbing kit! IMHO the chances are someone doing it the first time is going to be "leaning" on everyone around them for gear, psyche and expertise.

A number of years ago a this guy I met once (Doug), wanted to highline: he harassed me for maybe 2 months, then I took him on his first, a new line on natural gear- in this case all mine. He wanted it enough to put in the effort, and years later he is a prolific slacker with many highlines under his swami belt. That day I consider easily worth my time, and cherished the opportunity to share an experience with someone so keen.
Sandbagging is a dirty game

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