Bolting

Ask. Answer. Discuss. Any bolting related issues.
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CraigS93
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Real Name: Craig saunders

Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:15 am

Hi guys

Just need some advice , my friend has some rock on his farm , looks like quarts.

I'm wanting to maybe put just a top anchor up so we can top rope for fun.

What bolts would I need ? He has SS10mm x 60 mm sleeve bolts lying around would this be ok to use ?
And what chain should be uses ?

I'd rather be safe that have an accident happen !

The climb isn't high about +-10 m.

Thanks guys

Andy Davies
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Re: Bolting

Post by Andy Davies » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:53 am

Same as buying a climbing rope, I recommend going to a legit climbing retailer and buying some bolts and hangers meant for climbing.
AndyDavies

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Bolting

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:17 pm

Where is the farm? Any where near the sea (bearing in mind that Montague has had SCC bolt failures...), if it is, you'd be better off with glue-in anchors
Happy climbing
Nic

CraigS93
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Re: Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:35 pm

The farm is up in sterkfontein.
Only going to be up for for a few weeks then heading back
To Dubai .

Hangers I have extra from my wall at home . So just bolts ..
Have to try and find a shop around here

CraigS93
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Re: Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:38 pm

That's the hanger , and the bolts he has
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CraigS93
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Re: Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:38 pm

That's the hanger , and the bolts he has
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Forket
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Re: Bolting

Post by Forket » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:48 am

CraigS93 wrote:
Just need some advice , my friend has some rock on his farm , looks like quarts.
I cant help you with the bolting, but I can tell you that quartz is a mineral, not a rock. Rock is a mineral aggregate. When quartz grains undergo metamorphism, it becomes a rock named quartzite (frequently named quartz by non geologists as it looks similar). Your friend most likely has quartzite on his farm. (As Cuan mentions below, it might be sandstone, quartz grains with a silicate matrix, which looks completely different than pure quartz)

I love geology. I love rocks:)
Ebert
Last edited by Forket on Fri Apr 24, 2015 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Thermophage
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Re: Bolting

Post by Thermophage » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:22 am

Hence Tabel Mountain QUARTZITE! NOT 4king sandstone anymore! sigh

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Forket
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Re: Bolting

Post by Forket » Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:43 pm

Thermophage wrote:Hence Tabel Mountain QUARTZITE! NOT 4king sandstone anymore! sigh
Think its still Sandstone :roll: , didn't undergo metamorphism. Just a bunch of quartz grains that chilled together and became a sedimentary rock through a process of diagenesis :pirat:

Enjoy the friction:D
eT

Old Smelly
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Re: Bolting

Post by Old Smelly » Fri Apr 24, 2015 4:02 pm

My how Ebert has changed! I can still remember when he couldn't piece words and sentences together....now he is talking geology with Authority! :thumright :jocolor:
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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Thermophage
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Re: Bolting

Post by Thermophage » Fri Apr 24, 2015 4:09 pm

Forket wrote:
Thermophage wrote:Hence Tabel Mountain QUARTZITE! NOT 4king sandstone anymore! sigh
Think its still Sandstone :roll: , didn't undergo metamorphism. Just a bunch of quartz grains that chilled together and became a sedimentary rock through a process of diagenesis :pirat:

Enjoy the friction:D
eT
Greenschist facies metamorphism. Admittedly lower greenschist but there is definite recrystalisation and qtz grain boundaries show triple junctions...quartzite ;)

CraigS93
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Re: Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:45 pm

Ok guys , how about someone trying to help me please !

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Justin
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Re: Bolting

Post by Justin » Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:33 pm

CraigS93 wrote:Ok guys , how about someone trying to help me please !
If you're in Montagu I can sell you 2 or so bolts (I could even mail them to you).
Do not use the bolt(s) that you have posted in the pictures above. Rather install anchors that are 'known'.
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Guardian
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Re: Bolting

Post by Guardian » Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:51 pm

"The dominant stratigraphic feature of Table mountain is the uniform, well bedded light grey sandstone of the peninsula formation. The rock commonly carries scattered pebbles of white vein quartz and locally grades into conglomerate"
I happen to have a pamphlet on Table mountain that I picked up from the university next to me and couldn't resist.
There is nothing more beautiful than a well dressed alpine butterfly.

deSouzaFrank
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Re: Bolting

Post by deSouzaFrank » Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:30 pm

I have tried to use this forum to gain info on bolting. :lol: no real help. seems to be for the elite

I have sunken a few holes in a cliff close to my house, by hand, and they are bomber, if I may say so myself.

Stay far away from those bolts you've got there man. I used Hilti HSA-R M10x90mm (overkill in length but hey...)
Drill deeper than the overall length of the bolt so you can hammer them away into the rock should you want to replace them in the future. Drill as far away, as possible, from edges and cracks. I try to drill as perpendicular as possible to the rock as I worry about water ingress should I drill at a downwards angle into the rock. Also try and find a flat spot so the hanger sits nice and flat and cant '"rock". I think this "rocking" will allow the hanger to exert leverage force on the bolt. MOST importantly clean the hole. After you have cleaned the hole, clean it again. I use a bottlebrush slightly bigger than the hole (a gun barrel cleaner to be precise) and a blow pipe to blow out the dust. Any dust left behind will act as bearings between the bolt sleeve and the rock. I use a torque wrench to ensure I don't over or under torque the bolts. You should torque these bolts at 30Nm. The bolt will turn with the nut if you left any dust behind, and you'll know you fucked this one up. knock it in and away and drill a new one.

As for my home made hand drill, I use a 10mm drill bit and wrapped rubber (tractor inner tube) around the top for a handle and to have some extra torque when it starts get jammed as you get deeper. Simply twist the drill bit this way and that way as you hammer the bit at the back. no need to moer the thing. You want to just chip away at the rock at a steady pace.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Bolting

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:59 pm

Bolts you can buy from Mountain Mail Order, they can courier it if you are pressed for time. Expansions will be fine where you are. Place at least 2 bolts per anchor. Try to not place the bolts too close to one another, at least 20cm apart, so that if the rock fails around one, it doesn't take the other out too. Avoid the triangle of death by making sure that if you join the bolts together with tat or a chain that the angle formed by the chain is no more than 90 degrees.
Happy climbing
Nic

CraigS93
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Re: Bolting

Post by CraigS93 » Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:00 am

Thanks for the i for guys :) that helped a lot ...

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Justin
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Re: Bolting

Post by Justin » Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:32 am

deSouzaFrank wrote:I have tried to use this forum to gain info on bolting. :lol: no real help. seems to be for the elite.
See links below:
Bolting Questions & Guidelines
Permanent Protection – Bolting Basic Overview

Please anyone ask anything, we will do our best to advise you. These little pieces of metal hold our lives and for many is the base upon which the sport is built upon.
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