Bolting the crux

[valconcorner]

A discussion was had while walking back from the Steeple a while ago - what is the rule of thumb as to where the bolt should be placed - at/before/ or after the crux move ?
It obviously depends on the route opener but is there a general consensus ?

[Wes]

Firstly, you want to protect the crux move. ie make it safe to do.

You would want to place a bolt in a easily clippable position just before the crux move.

But in reality every route is different and requires a bit of thought and common sense.

[Warren G]

Agreed with We, you even get situations where the crux sequence is so long that THE crux bolt is actually a working bolt, and should be clipped. A big step in your climbing career is when you stop thinking bolt to bolt, but start thinking rest to rest.

[Nic Le Maitre]

One of my pet hates from sport climbing is when routes have been bolted by tall people who assume that the position of the bolt is fine for everyone but for the shorter climbers it may require you to climb the crux before you can protect it as the bolt is placed just that little bit too high.

[Chris F]

If bolted badly enough, clipping the bolts can be the actual crux!

[Old Smelly]

Thumbs up to you Nic! Right on!