New routes to be bolted & help setting up a climbing wall

[dirk76]

Hi.....

My name is Dirk.....

I live in Morgan bay about 80 km outside east london , where we are fortunate to have amazing sea cliff climbing on awesome
dolerite , mainly crags.... we have over 500 routes , but only 7 are sport... rest are trad..... there is potenial to open some amazing routes ont he 4th headland as well as in other spots..... over the time i have been here and climbers have visited there has been request for more sport routes.... who could one contact to bolt routes as i do not have the cofidence or knowledge on bolting routes.....

My second request is we are building a 2.5 wide by +- 20 high climbing wall on the side of a hotel and wondering if anyone could assist me with how to set routes......

Any advice and help will be greatly apriciated...

[Wes]

Your full stop key seems to be stuck.....

[oubaas]

Wes don't be a doos

[garvinj]

Hi Dirk....
I would like to suggest that you discourage anyone from climbing the bolted routes there. Its been years since I've clipped bolts there and back then the bolts were not in good condition....

Bolting at Morgan Bay is a little bit of a waste money, in that the bolts don't last long and the routes don't really get climbed much... The trad climbing is also just so great.
So if someone is keen to clip bolts send me a message and I'll come bolt a route of there choice, but they must cover the cost!!!! Also they will have to take responsibility for maintenance on the route.... You can check with MMO for the cost of bolts and hangers and add transport and labor to that!!!!

In fact next time I come to MB I plan on stripping the routes that I bolted there because they would be really doggy by now....
I think it may seem like I'm against bolting there, but if there was a safe, lasting and affordable way to do it, I'd be really keen.

Garvin

[mokganjetsi]

titanium glue-in top anchors for top roping?

advise using supplementary trad gear on sport lines?

[justin]

I'll echo what Garvin (Mok) say, bolts at the seaside detoriate fast and furiously!
Glue-in (Titanium) top anchors for hard / unprotected routes if you must!

The climbing wall sounds cool! Please post pics when its up :0

[dirk76]

hi.....

thank you every one for the advice. some areas , with just top anchors would be amazing. most of the sport routes i stay clear off, but do do sports by Capt morgan on second headland....