It is currently Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:40 am

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:03 pm 
What type of glue does one use to glue down a piece of rock that is part of the route. Not loose, but not entirely secure either, after about ten or so ascents it might come off. What would you use and where would one buy it.thanks


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:03 pm 
why do you want it to come off at all? I reckon either pull it off, or glue it on so that it won't ever come off.. but that's just me. (zerodoubleone@webmail.co.za)


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:04 pm 
carbona not glue sorry...[/b]


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:04 pm 
To D, that's what I said, I can't pull it off, and I DON'T want it to come off!!!


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:04 pm 
Oh right.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:05 pm 
As far as I know, epoxy is the way forward. More than that, and I'm clueless. Maybe try Joffrey at Saclimb.co.za - i think they have done some experiments at Swinburne..


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:05 pm 
Try the Hilti people. They make rock anchors that are a epoxied into a hole. This is apparently stronger that a rawl bolt… (reimana@vcontractor.co.za)


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm 
There is only one epoxy adhesive that works properly. Hilti RE500. Most other epoxies are mortars not adhesives. Mortars are fine for gluing in bolts where there is a close tolerance between the bolt and the wall of the hole. They will not work for gluing on holds; so adhesive it is. You can fill the cracks around the hold with glue and hope it stays in place, or (much better) break the hold off scrub it clean then glue it back on. This creates a large gluing area that is far stronger than simply gluing around the edges. The snag comes in that RE500 takes 24 hours to set so if the hold is large and heavy you need to engineer some way of holding it in place while the glue sets. For small flakes the glue is probaly thick enough to hold them in place, but the big stuff you will need to bolt in place. Drill a 12mm hole through the hold with the hammer setting turned off (or the hold will break) Put the hold in place and continue the whole into the rock face. You can drill a short depth, remove the hold, then finish the job. You want to drill just deep enough to accept a stainless steel drop in anchor. Put in the anchor, glue up the hold then fix it in place with a length of stainless steel m10 threaded rod and a nut. You may try applying grease to the threads so that the glue doesnt grab the rod. The rod can later be removed and the hole filled with glue. If the rod doesnt come out snap it flush with the hold and patch over with glue. NOTE RE500 is bright pink! Camouflage it by sprinkling/rubbing sand over the glue. Oh yeah and you can wipe up spills and excess glue with a wet cloth, neat. (grahart2003@yahoo.com)


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm 
By the way the glue is hugely expensive (I paid R350 for a canister) It is probably way more than you need and only keeps for one month after opening. I suggest sharing the expense with someone, try contacting Mark Kruger: Krugemj2@telkom.co.za , who also has a route that needs fixing, he may be willing to share the expense with you. If you share then you will need to organise spare mixing nozzles as the canisters only come with one. Lastly and most important you will need the applicator gun (cost R800+!), I am prepared to let people use my applicator with supervision.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm 
Crap, thats alot of money for some glue. In reference What do you use the anchor for? and the rod goes in the drilled hole to secure it?


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:07 pm 
The anchor is to screw the threaded rod into. Anchor has threads on inside. Spose you could even try duct tape! (to hold flakes in place as the glue sets) Also leaving a length of rod in the hold, either through snapping or removing and cutting shorter then reinserting, will make for a super strong re-infoced hold. Clean the grease off well first and use a bit of glue on the outer threads keeping the part of the rod that threads into the anchor clean. Seal over with glue and sand.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:07 pm 
Why not just leave the flake off ?????


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:07 pm 
like i Said leave the flake off then the route just becomes harder (jeromehe@iafrica.com)


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:08 pm 
Or impossible.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:08 pm 
In conection with developement project I have to find a glue /adhesive for gluing a small flexible PI(Polyimide) film (3 x20mm) on to a PU (Polyurethane) hose with a diameter of 5mm . If you have any sugestions to which glue/adhesive to use please kontact me on the below mentioned E-mail. Kaj Larsen Mekoprint A/S Hermesvej 4 9530 Stovring Denmark E-mail: kaj.larsen@mekoprint.dk (kaj.larsen@mekoprint.dk)


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:09 pm 
Depends on what it is that needs gluing. Hilti RE500 is the strongest glue but it takes 24-48hrs to set. Hilti also have a new version of their C100 out that has a fast cure time. It is perhaps not as good as the RE500. Gluing is a mission unless its just squirting a bit behind a flake or in a crack. Ive done some gluing that involved all sorts of mechanics to hold the flake on whilst the glue set, but Im not sure if its worth all the hassle! Just pull off what comes off by hand and then leave it, climb stuff in as natural a state as possible. If you do decide to glue just make sure that its adhesive you are using and not a mortar. Some of the mortars on the market have little or no adhesion to the rock.


Top
  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Baidu [Spider], Bing [Bot], Google [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group