a try to answer the question of the bolting glue:
please consider my english! (I am not a native speaker)
In Europe we recommend to use glued in bolts whenever it is possible!
the durability is much better than express anchors.
But as Andy says, it is very important to do the correct procedure:
after drilling the hole to clean proper by using a brush and blowing out
the dust with a bellows. Injecting the glue, placing the bolt and not touching for the time while it hardens.
There are many products. Mostly I use HILTI HIT HY150 or RE500,
FISCHER FIS VS 100P, any type of two component epoxy glue,
UPAT UKA3 or UMV (both are glass-cartridges with the 2 components
inside). For HILTI You need a \"gun\" for injection (that means costs and weight), for Fischer nothing, so it is cheaper and less weight, when working. The cartridge contains a screw-cylinder for injecting the glue
into the hole. The advantage of the glass-cartridges of UPAT or FISCHER
is that you have no hurry,when working, they last for years when storing
and the hardening is extremely fast - so You can load the anchor shortly after placing!!
Bolts I buy from AustriAlpin firstname.lastname@example.org
, Petzl (very expensive) or express-anchors from Fischer or HILTI. Hangers from Austrialpin.
If You have anymore question please contact me. Josef