Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

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PeterHS
Posts: 232
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:50 am
Real Name: Peter Hedley-Smith
Location: Cape Town

Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Postby PeterHS » Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:07 pm

Hi all. Did anyone see this article in Rock and Ice?

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-gear ... t-lead-pro

Any thoughts or comments? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts and opinions.

Ciao,

Peter

SNORT
Posts: 1070
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Postby SNORT » Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:50 pm

Essential to reduce the fall factor and always clip the belay but obviously only if the anchor is above the waist of the belayer or to the side. Also the anchor must be bomber. If not, then it is a moot point.

Hector
Posts: 413
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Re: Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Postby Hector » Wed Jan 11, 2017 9:20 am

Hard moves just above a stance are dangerous (due to high fall factors) and its worth being aware of this when building a stance. Sometimes you can end the previous pitch lower down so the leader has more rope out when at the hard bit. Or keep climbing through the hard bit before stancing so you have a full pitch of rope out. If either of these aren't an option you can build a stance below the hard bit and then lower down from it a ways and tie off with a clove hitch. Now the leader can clip the anchor to protect the hard moves, the belayer is out of the way of a fall, the fall factor is reduced, and the belayer will get pulled up in a fall. As Snort says, even if the moves above the stance are easy its a good idea to clip the stance.


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