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 Post subject: Flexibility
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:39 am
Posts: 38
Real Name: Micheal
Looking for resources on flexibility. At the moment I don't have the time to get savagely strong,
but do have time to get real flexible.(my high step has always been a weak point)

Starting to stretch for 15min or so a day, after running and this seems to be going well.

Any good resources or tips would be appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
Start doing yoga, I started recently and have already seen drastic results in my flexibility I only do it for about 10 minutes a day, very basic exercise. :afro:

Sheldon

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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2980
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Agreed, in addition to making you more supple, Yoga will also make you strong.
- 6 yoga poses for rock climbers
- Can Yoga Replace Strength Training?

If you're in CT Cityrock offer yoga classes.

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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 240
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Yoga better than plain stretching, you can't have flexibility without strength, they need to work in conjunction

Performance rock climbing says flexibility training should only account for 10% of your training.

More than stretching, hip and shoulder mobility drills would have the biggest impact!

Hope this helps,

Cormac


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 592
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Justin wrote:
Yoga will also make you strong.


....and improve your balance, teach you better "grounding" for your feet, improve your ability to focus, clear your mind etc etc.

Be warned though, it can get addictive. A friend of mine has just about given up climbing and is focussed on yoga.

Here he is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EFfIRk7IVI


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:55 pm
Posts: 164
Cormes, give the man Malcolms details and let Mr Gowans get him on the right track !!!
cheers


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 10:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:39 am
Posts: 38
Real Name: Micheal
I guess, "Can yoga replace strength training?" is the question.
In the past my approach was to build strength (with mediocre technique) allowing me to climb fairly competently.
I hardly did any flexibility training.
I guess this whats separates the average 'off the couch' climbers,from the great :jocolor:

Shot for the replies


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 592
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Don wrote:
I guess, "Can yoga replace strength training?" is the question.


Assuming you mean climbing strength, in a word - no. No yoga exercise is specific enough on the finger, hand and forearm muscles. For that you need a training wall, fingerboard, pullup bar, campus board or similar if your time is limited.


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:46 pm
Posts: 1
Real Name: Desiree Jones
I think I should state my bias upfront.

I love yoga.

I started it as cross-training for climbing but now I practice regularly for pure enjoyment. I even teach.

In terms of flexibility, yoga is obviously a great way to improve this gradually over time, in a controlled way. A flow yoga class has lots of lunges that should help your high step.

Yoga has been great for me for developing strength, particularly core strength. It has also helped fix muscular imbalances from climbing.

Here’s a great article from Rich Roll, two-time top finisher at the Ultraman World Championships, on why every athlete should do yoga.

http://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-4806/Why ... -Yoga.html


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 Post subject: Re: Flexibility
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 11:52 am
Posts: 2
Real Name: it computer
re there other simple techinques and concepts that are vital besides safety?

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