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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:31 pm
Posts: 49
Real Name: Marllu da Conceicao
Hi guys

I found this great resource for route setting.

http://routecrafting.blogspot.com/2011/ ... stage.html

i would love to see some of this in our local gyms, especially the part about uncluttering the walls.

any comments? anything you guys would love to see or change in your local gyms?


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 11:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 1:27 pm
Posts: 83
Interesting article and thanks for sharing - there is so much more to route setting than just bolting some holds on to a wall. I really enjoy route setting and have often unconciously used some of these suggestions but have also picked up a few great pointers for next time.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:37 pm
Posts: 6
Real Name: Jonathan Tweedle
Nice article. Some points from my side which I use when setting my routes:

Design a crux move from certain grips which you want to train or just enjoy, then lead up to it or from it. The key is to try limit the added grips from aiding on your crux such as an added foot that provides a better body position from.

Limit the holds to the specific use, so if you want a grip to only be used for a foot then use a grip that makes a good enough foot hold but is useless as a hand grip or vice versa.

Tracking ... Try to set routes with tracking in mind. You can still build hard routes but if you have beginners working your routes try and guide them to using proper body position and hand/foot usage.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 4:17 pm
Posts: 78
Not too sure if this deals with aesthetics or functionality but I would love route setters to adopt the mantra - IF ITS TAKES REACH TO CRACK THE ROUTE ITS A FAILED ROUTE


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:08 am
Posts: 127
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
Real Name: Donovan Craig
Does SA have a routesetting program through one of the organizations or is it every man for himself?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 5:45 pm
Posts: 72
Real Name: peter parker
paddy wrote:
Not too sure if this deals with aesthetics or functionality but I would love route setters to adopt the mantra - IF ITS TAKES REACH TO CRACK THE ROUTE ITS A FAILED ROUTE


VIVA!

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