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Starting to trad...

Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 4:20 pm
by Arnoster
I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half and want to start trad climbing. What would be the most comprehensive and informative book to buy. Obviously I'm gonna learn the most from just doing it, but I'd like to have some sort of clue what to do when things go wrong - with me they usually do :oops: Any help is greatly appreciated!

Books

Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:05 pm
by Gadget
This is a copy from an earlier post:

The list of climbing books (most in the \"How To Climb\" series) by John Long is very good, recommended by many and readily available in SA. I only own and have read the \"Climbing Anchors\" book, and can recommend it (talks mainly about trad anchors and stances with lots of pictures and analysis of gear positions etc.).

The book \"Mountaineering freedom of the hills\" (now in 7th edition) has a reputation in the USA of being the \"mountaineering bible\". It has been a best selling mountaineering book for yonks. It is thick, comprehensive and fairly detailed and I found it to be a very useful reference to go back to time and again. But: it is pricy and I have not seen it in SA book shops (maybe Kalahari.net?).

a bit off the topic

Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:32 pm
by eza
one day we all might grow up to be just like this strong man (Fiddler on the Roof 5.13d)Image :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:14 pm
by Justin
The 'How to climb' series.

Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:11 pm
by Marshall
Tony Lourens' Complete Climbing Manual was one of best I have ever seen of that type of book. A good option.

But I would skip those how-to books & get gear. Climbing books are generaly boring bollocks. Only good for impressing mates...for a limited period. Most gear, if new, comes with an instruction tag. The rest is only really learned by experiance.

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:05 am
by Arnoster
Awesome! Thanx for all the speedy info. Will be putting it to good use as soon as possible!

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:04 am
by Rastaman
Go trad climbing with somebody with experience.
Its fairly logical and the difference between a good and bad placement is normally obvious but be carefull.
Trial and error is not very safe when its comes to trad.

bs

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:18 pm
by guest
Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 3:07 pm
by Marshall
Return of the guest....

Have to agree with you \"best bet is to climb many routes with experienced knowledgable trad climbers\". Reading books on how-to climb trad is just not as good as getting out there with someone who has the nessary experiance.

\"not Marshall as clearly, he doesnt read books\"....I read quite abit, but mostly politics, history & occasionaly a climbing book. Sure information is non exhaustive, & it would not hurt reading it up, but at a certain point you have to get on with it. Not sure how many trad routes I've climbed in my life, but last year I opened more than 200. So bollocks to Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:38 am
by Arnoster
Well...well...my dad's a fireman! So what do you say about that?! :shock: I really appreciate all the info, EQUALLY. No need to drop our pants and have a size-up (cause I'd most likely loose :lol: ). Now let's all kiss and and make up. I'm currently climbing with an experienced trad climber, so it's all good. I'm just trying to get as clued up as possible. Once again, thanx for all the info.

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:51 am
by Hawkman
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. Another vote for just get out there with an experienced leader and do it. I'd only just started leading when I did my first trip to yosemite, albeit sticking to the smaller multi-pitch stuff.