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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:03 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Gerhard Human
Hi, where can I find some info on the actual "Silvermine Boulder"? I've been working on some routes on the side of it and just for interest sake would like to know what others have graded them at…
I have that rare scanned in Topside guide, and some other PDFs on Brazil and so on, but there's nothing on the actual Silvermine boulder :P

It's pretty much the most popular boulder out there, so surely SOMEONE should know the routes on it?

Thanks folks!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:18 am 
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Real Name: Gerhard Human
Somebody?…anybody?…
OK so maybe to make it easier, I've taken a photo of the boulder yesterday (in the rain), the 2 routes I'm interested in I've marked "A" and "B" but any others will be great as well :)

"A" starts on that rail, then to the 2 perfect pockets and topping out via the sidepull and the big holes at the top.

"B" starts in that crack from the ground-up, then goes up via the obvious slopers just right of the prow…


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File comment: Photo of Silvermine Boulder
SilvermineBoulder.jpg
SilvermineBoulder.jpg [ 109.24 KiB | Viewed 742 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
The grade is 'Hard' 8)

People were 'climbing' on this boulder before Bouldering, crashpads and Sport Climbing existed! I was told it was were the Hard Men went to train for finger strength - I certainly doubt we'll ever know who did any of the first ascents.

More:
- Guy Holwill wrote a poem about this boulder and then went on to fall off the top resulting in a broken leg!
- The crack on the opposite side of the boulder (looking at the photo above) is graded F3 (17) and is a complete sandbag!!
After Sean Maasch expressed interest in rock climbing his friend Paul Schlotfeldt put up a top rope on the 'F3 crack' for Sean to try out rock climbing. Paul chose this route in the hope that it would put Sean off the idea of climbing. It didn't :lol:

It's a super cool boulder and I'm still looking for a helicopter strong enough to deliver it to my back garden :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:05 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Gerhard Human
Hey Justin, thanks that's some interesting history you're sharing :D haha yea that drop is pretty high. Falling down and breaking a leg isn't something you want playing in your mind when topping out!

Yea and that crack at the back looks like loads of fun. I usually climb by myself so haven't had the opportunity to try that. Think it's a bit of a nasty fall so best to wait for a decent spotter.

Cool but thanks for the info so far!!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:50 am 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
There also used to be a forest by the boulder where you could braai and entrance was free!


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File comment: Silvermine Bouldering
silvermine_forest_boulder.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:11 pm 
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Real Name: Gerhard Human
WOW! I can't even picture that it's the same spot! I only moved down to Cape Town 6 years ago, so I never saw it like that :D

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:41 pm 
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We used to have names for the obvious "classics", including A and B in the photo. I recall names like "Pink Elephants in Hell" and "Horrorshow", and the super classic "Dynaman". Others were less poetic gems like "Undercling Route", "Layback Problem" etc. I remember naming one of the eliminate/variant/contrived super sequences "The Chriropractor" as a result of the ominous sounds in induced from my spine. I have spent quite a few hours/days/months (???) on this block, and my knees and spine probably creak and crunch as they do as a result of all the , pre-pad, ground-falls. The forest is surely missed, as is being able to drive to within 20 metres of the block. Oddly we never called this bouldering. It was simply training for real climbing :-) It was, at one time, also a good place to meet the who's who of a bygone era. By the way, I was up there again today, clearing the cobwebs, and enjoying my well rehearsed version of a gym work-out. Awesome!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 9:05 am 
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Justin wrote:
Guy Holwill wrote a poem about this boulder...


It wasn't a poem, it was a list of requirements for a bouldering area to be considered 'good'... he also mentions several other boulders that are worth a visit (in the Cape Peninsula!).
Who would have thought!!! :)

Richard, I can recall you doing multiple laps around that boulder (without putting a foot down) 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 10:39 am 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
To clarify... this is a copy of the page from the Southern Rock Magazine (No.2)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 11:16 am 
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Real Name: Gerhard Human
Awesome thanks Justin! That's some real interesting quiz data :D

Still would like to know if any of those routes have been "named" or graded at some point?
Just for interest sake, if it hasn't then that's cool too.

It's such a nice spot to frequent after work on my way back home. Almost weird not seeing more people there.

btw. Did "Souther Rock" become SA Mountain Mag?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:23 pm 
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As mentioned in my previous post, we certainly did name some of the problems. As we weren't really bouldering as such we used to imagine finding those moves after say 30 m of sustained climbing and grade accordingly. I guess that most of the original problems are in the 5c - 6b range???? I definitely have found Topside problems of 6c and above to be infinitely harder than most Silvermine (New Wave) Boulder problems.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 2:33 pm 
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ShaolinWood wrote:
. Did "Southern Rock" become SA Mountain Mag?


I remember reading that article well! Justin was scanning and posting up some of the old issues at one point (hint! :wink: )

I think there was a gap of at least 10 years between Southern Rock and SA Mountain Mag. Southern Rock ended in early/ mid 90s?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:32 am 
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Justin wrote:
There also used to be a forest by the boulder where you could braai and entrance was free!

Bring back the trees!


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