Yellowwood Update

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
SNORT
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Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:01 am

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Johann Lanz and I climbed another new sexy route at YW yesterday. Margaret (my wife) named it Cum's a Time in keeping with Another Fckn Time to its left. It has 7 pitches of which 4 are 5*. The first pitch is shared with Another Fckn Time. The pitches are grade 14 19 19 19 22 22 21.

We also abseiled straight down it and got to the Divine Time drip in 3 very quick abseils. The second abseil is exactly 50m so be careful or use 60m ropes. If you use 50m ropes then make sure you keep the tails at the knot short and the first one down must preferably also put knots at the end of the rope.

It is a much better descent than any other at Yellowwood as the ropes pull very easily and it is very quick indeed. Details will be posted later.

The drip at the base of Divine Time is still running and all the water containers are full = around 60L. So feel free to use but use sparingly if the drip is dry when you are there

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Justin
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Re: YELLOWWOOD UPDATE

Post by Justin » Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:00 am

Awesome, nice going guys.
Quite envious :mrgreen:
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mokganjetsi
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Re: YELLOWWOOD UPDATE

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:59 am

Nice one Snort!

But dude.....that name :scratch:
I gotto harp on about the wonder of rock; millions of years in the making; perched on a mountain in an epic setting; hopefully to be climbed & enjoyed in a pristine condition for many generations...... surely we should name routes with some dignity. Or I'll go chisel that name on your gravestone one day :wink:

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:50 am

What's in a name? There is a "Comes a Time" at Tafelberg. There is a classic 23 called Dog Style in Magaliesberg. I was on the opening ascent of both.

As far as I am concerned climbing is orgasmic. As indeed this route was so.

In my view there is nothing more satisfying and dignified than an Orgasm as long as it is with someone you love. I.e. my wife Margaret and my Mistress Yellowwood.

I look forward to the dirtnap with Orgasmatron or something similarly dignified inscribed on my Tomb Stone.

Not sure which is the better name for that buttress. The Sex Buttress or Orgasm Buttress. Perhaps the new abseil route should be called (POM) Post Orgasmic Melancholy.
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mokganjetsi
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:18 am

i'm duly impressed with your (our shared) enthusiasm about orgasmic experiences of all kinds, and do not object to pursuing & enjoying those.
but there certainly is something to be said for being classy, clever, witty, epic, interesting or fun in giving route names (whatever your topic of choice is). "cum" however is the kind of vocabulary you find scribbled on a public toilet wall; and I certainly object to yellowwood getting the same treatment.

hell, you can name your children Cum & Ballsack for all i care - they live with the consequences. But when you name a route you name something near immortal; something in honest & unspoilt nature; something other people have to face.
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Justin
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Justin » Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:02 pm

Why is this also a bookshop name... why is the Christian book store called CUM Books/Boeke ? (pronounced 'kuum' I believe)
I've wondered this for sometime :scratch:

Good thing Snort is a Doctor (that way he can get away with these types of names :)
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Warren G
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Warren G » Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:33 pm

I agree 100% with Mok on this topic: be more creative than that. I'm surprised Snort don't name the routes after his children: not only did he climax but his seed went all the way.

What a low level conversation such names inspire, a father of the community behaving like a pubescent boy.
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:51 pm

Nice debate about names and words usage.

I prefer looking up words on Wikipedia as the description there would be better balanced for the present time and context. I do not agree that the word cum is vulgar. (And neither, it seems, does my wife.)

You should read a book by Irving Wallace (1969) that deals with this kind of thing very well. Among other things he describes how the word Fuck (meaning sow in Chauser's times) usage has changed over time. And other choice slang vulgar words as well.

Remember people get slaughtered for all sorts of things like posting a picture of Mohammed in the media. We should not fall into that trap on a climbing website albeit that the slaughter would be figurative (I hope).

We cannot let our personal sensitivities get in the way of free speech.

That is not to say that you need to agree with or consider any name route as being nice.

So see below what the WIKI has to say. The WIKI posts are put up by the public at large and I think more accurately reflects the general sentiments of the broader community as opposed to say Vocabulary.com (I have no idea which bigot- or not edits Vocab.com)

Very many route names are plagiarized from songs, books and music names. I try quite hard not to. It could infringe copyrights and trade marks.

Taylor Swift is trying to trademark her lyrics.:
"Video Taylor Swift not the first to try and trademark her lyrics:

http://www.thestar.com/entertainment/mu ... yrics.html
Jan 30, 2015 - Taylor Swift has applied to trademark “This sick beat” and other phrases from her hit album “1989.”
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Nice debate about names and words usage.

SNORT
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:54 pm

What a low level conversation such names inspire, a father of the community behaving like a pubescent boy.
Warren I hope you are joking or trolling because that is otherwise an extremely bigoted statement. Unless you are the "father of the community" being referred to.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Warren G » Fri Feb 13, 2015 2:39 pm

You can name your routes whatever you like, but if others don't like it don't expect them to keep quiet. You are naming immortal features after shallow impulses: perhaps you have run out of names (would explain the codified use of the "time suffex"), or perhaps it is a display of something else.

There is nothing bigoted here, just a distaste for the new names. Not sure why you would think I would call myself a father of the community, and perhaps you are right that none of them are involved in this at all
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by johannlanz » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:04 pm

On a point of order, honourable member...

mokganjetsi
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:16 pm

Fair enough, there are certainly more vulgar words in the good ol' english language than cum; and maybe (much like beauty) the vulgarity is in the ear of the hearer. I do maintain my stance on this though - not as a would-be sensor; nor as trying to limit free-speach or taking the the dizzying-moral-high ground - but rather making a case for route names that can be considered an achievement of creativity as opposed to a cheap lick. we take great care & pride in naming our kids and surely we could do the same for routes - especially good ones on epic cliffs.

ultimately your decision. i rest my case. :thumleft:

ps: then there is the interesting issue of different languages......
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SNORT
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:20 pm

Warren, You have every right to dislike a name. And you can state so. I dislike many names but that does not really matter.

To pass judgment on the person on the one hand, or to be bigoted about the underlying meaning of the name, its origins and the like is not OK. We have lived far too long in a society that is small brained about sex, religion, colour, race and so on.

We should not tolerate ideological or religious zealots, bigots or any prejudice from anyone.

So I really do not think that there is anything sleazy about the word cum. It is, at worst, a little risqué.

If it is considered sleazy by some then they should get over it.


Having said that I can understand that some people may think the name is distasteful and I shall check with Johann who did the route with me if he reckons we should change it. Perhaps we should call it "A Time for Change". We could also call it "Comes a Time" which by the way is the name of a Neal Young Song and perhaps a little more subtle.


"Comes A Time"

Comes a time
when you're driftin'
Comes a time
when you settle down
Comes a light
feelin's liftin'
Lift that baby
right up off the ground.

Oh, this old world
keeps spinning round
It's a wonder tall trees
ain't layin' down
There comes a time.

You and I we were captured
We took our souls
and we flew away
We were right
we were giving
That's how we kept
what we gave away.

Oh, this old world
keeps spinning round
It's a wonder tall trees
ain't layin' down
There comes a time.

The rental company next to the hotel I stayed at in December
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Justin
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Justin » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:25 pm

Just throwing spanners here :eye:
Anyone care to go over some of the names that got assigned to routes at 'The Alley' in Montagu.
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mokganjetsi
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:30 pm

I hold trad climbers to higher standards than sport climbers....... those names are to be expected :wink:

peace & out :arrow:

Hector
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Hector » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:49 pm

For me the Yellowwood names are uninspiring and pretty confusing. But I don’t find them offensive because they aren’t targeted at anyone.

I was about to mention The Alley route names as a completely different animal, but Justin beat me to it. One route there is called “Necessary Rape”. Seriously? What does that even mean? I’ll give the FA the benefit of the doubt that it was named in irony, but still. A route name has no context, any supposed irony is long gone, and it will stand proudly and offensively on the wiki for years to come. It’s as bad as a racial slur but is somehow tolerated. Other route names at the same crag aren’t much better. It would be awesome if the first ascentionists changed the names, but if they don’t should the climbing community do it for them? After all, Two to Win got re-named Streetfighter by consensus because Two to Win was, well, lame. If a lame name can get a face-lift then surely a genuinely offensive one can too?

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:00 pm

Some names at Pinnacle Gorge:

Begging for More – 17
Me & My Hardness – 14
Old Style Dog Style – 23
I-Was-Gon’e-Lick-Garvin’s-Balls-but-He-Didn’t-Do-the-Roof -
She Was Virgin, but Not for long – 15 

There is also a "Porn Sector".

Lighten up guys. It really is all a hose.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:10 pm

On discussion with my buddy in disgrace we have decided to call the route. Timerity.

This is a new word in the English language as of now and is combination of Time and Temerity. It is the combination of the attributes required to climb a new route at Yellowwood and then to fend off okes who don't like the original name.

Considering the Fracas yesterday in Parliament and on this website today. We could also call it Point of Order!
temerity
tɪˈmɛrɪti/Submit
noun
excessive confidence or boldness; audacity.
"no one had the temerity to question his conclusions"
synonyms: audacity, boldness, audaciousness, nerve, effrontery, impudence, impertinence, cheek, barefaced cheek, gall, presumption, presumptuousness, brazenness, forwardness, front, rashness

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:25 pm

Hector wrote: It would be awesome if the first ascentionists changed the names, but if they don’t should the climbing community do it for them? After all, Two to Win got re-named Streetfighter by consensus because Two to Win was, well, lame. If a lame name can get a face-lift then surely a genuinely offensive one can too?
I'm with Hector here - there are lines that should not be crossed. Racism; hate speech; misogyny etc. and above all, lameness :mrgreen:

haha shot for that name-change Snort. and a cool name it is :thumright

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Jeremy Samson » Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:30 pm

I don't normally comment on the forum. At the time when some of the routes at the alley were being opened the bolting debate was still in full swing. Chris Sharma had just opened Necessary Evil the ' evil ' referred to the chipped holds. I was being criticised for not putting sufficient bolts on some of the horror shows at Paarl. A British article at the time referred to those who bolted routes along the lines of 'evil sport climbers raping the rock' That week-end I opened a short little thing at the alley that wouldn't climb safely without bolts. Begrudgingly I fully bolted it. In that context I called it ' Necessary Rape ' thinking I was cleverly combining a debate at the time, with then the hardest route and a bit of context - since the routes there had a sexual theme.

Given that no-one remembers any of this I concede it is a really crap name. I believe it has been changed. I really don't mind. Just as well. I could argue that rape is a seed like canola but everyone would think I am scratching the air.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Keith » Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:30 pm

Since no one seems to have said it...

The problem was perhaps not so much the vulgarity as that Cum's a Time just doesn't parse. It makes no more sense than Fuck's a Time or Orgasm's a Time. (Yeah I get it, 'come' becomes 'cum', but it doesn't work!)

Well done to the first ascentionists for chanigng what was a pretty lame name.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Justin » Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:44 pm

Jeremy Samson wrote:I don't normally comment on the forum.
Thanks Jeremy, interesting to know :thumleft:
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Willem » Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:29 pm

Did the route in question with Snort this morning. Whatever the merits of the name, it is a stonking climb. Long, consistent, well protected and on mostly solid rock. As a bonus, you get to do one of the most mind-warping, improbable pieces climbing you are likely to encounter anywhere. Well done Johann and Snort for an excellent addition to the crag.
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ant
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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by ant » Sun Feb 15, 2015 8:18 pm

Johann... "Point of order..." - Priceless

I'm glad this arrived at a good outcome.

Jeremy - thanks for weighing in - and yes, given the context, the Alley route-names now do mean something and tell a story. I enjoyed these types of tit-bits in your book a few years back. Guy Holwil's early guide-books also tried to record some of these stories which make things a bit more interesting.

We all learned a new word today, and there is now a story to tell!

And it's less likely that misguided LCD scum will come along and name new routes at Yellowood horrible names like... I don't know... Your mother his face...


And as a tangent-story for the evening... I once had the task of completing a short motivation of why Marius should be awarded UCT sports colours for bouldering. He had met the guideline criteria, but achieving "In the Middle of the Arse" didn't have quite the ring that the blues committee were looking for... made edits appropriate for the context...

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:01 pm

I find it interesting to hear all the "weigh-ins" about names. A route name does have something to do with the attraction or allure of a climb.

Timerity is a really good and un-forgettable outing. And I reckon the name is as fitting as any can be. So it is there forever for all and sundry to enjoy.

It is a route I would gladly repeat from "time to time". So if anyone wants to do it lemme know if you feel like I should accompany you. Ideally you should on-sight the route without me or Johan to fully enjoy the adventure.

Giving all the beta would ruin the experience especially on pitch 6 but I can assure you there are no dangerous or run-out sections. The pro is really good with a standard rack.

Thanks Willem for the complimentary post.

I shall post a topo as soon as my day job allows me time.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by johannlanz » Mon Feb 16, 2015 12:16 pm

Good outcome. Great to have this space for climbing community feedback of different voices. Thanks for the questioning and opinions expressed. I feel better having Thursday's effort and enjoyment associated with the name Timerity than with the previous proposal. Glad the route is already being enjoyed by others.

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Hector » Mon Feb 16, 2015 1:05 pm

Nice new route name Snort and Johann!

Thanks for the feedback on the Alley routes Jeremy. Context counts for a lot. Any Montague locals volunteering to change the names on the wiki...?

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by SNORT » Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:21 pm

The Photo topo is posted. Will do a more formal description soon. Meanwhile the photo topo is adequate

All the containers at the drip are full and the drip is flowing well.

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Timerity_22_*****

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by Keith » Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:50 am

As per Hector's request I have taken a stab a a sanitising the Alley names, complete with an 'overeating' theme. Names have been kept similar-sounding but with the nastiness expunged.

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/The_Alley

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Re: Yellowwood Update

Post by TonyCarboni » Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:44 am

I also don't enter the forum stage much , BUT just so you know, regarding the name changes at the Alley. When I published Western Cape Rock in 2005 I contacted Crute and Jeremy about renaming their routes for the then new guide (as at the time I felt uncomfortable about publishing those names in the book). They agreed and gave me new names. Check the old guide. And the new guide coming out in about 6 weeks will reflect the same names. So these names have been changed for 10 years already. I didn't think that Forced Entry needed changing, if the rape connotation names were no longer there, as it could apply to a break in, not did I feel it necessary to change the name Fatal Beating, as that comes from a Rowan Atkinson live show.

Here they are below:

Romance Alley
P. Project [B,C] Open
This route is about 10 metres to the left of route 2
1. A Bronx Tale ** 26/7b [6B,C] C. Bruton 1997
2. The Woodstock Saints *** 25/7a+ [5B,C] C. Bruton 1997
3. True Romance *** 24/7a [6B,C] D. Hugo 1997
4. Romancing the Stone *** 23/6c+ [6B,C] D. Hugo 1997
5. Hired Hands ** 23/6c+ [6B,C] S. Downing 1997
6. The Baseball Bat Treatment **** 28/7c [6B,C] G. Holwill 1997
7. Zero Tolerance ** 25/7a+ [4B,C] C. Bruton 1997

8. Lolita ** 17/5c [6B,C] K. Schumann 1999
9. Slag ** 19/6a+ [6B,C] K. Schumann 1997

Gangster’s Wall (30 metres further up from Romance Alley)
10. Fatal Beating ** 25/7a+ [4B,C] G. Holwill 1997
11. Forced Entry *** 27/7b+ [5B,C] K. Schumann 1998
12. A Slight Mugging *** 24/7a [7B,C] G Holwill 1997
13. Blunt Instrument** 25/7a+ [4B,C] G. Holwill 1997
14. Post Traumatic Stress ** 27/7b+ [5B,C] J. Samson 1997
15. Elephant Hitmen ** 24/7a [5B,C] D. Ward 1998
16. Gangster’s Paradise **** 27/7b+ [5B,C] G. Holwill 1997

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