Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by Stu » Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:33 am

Is it just me or does having two bolts alongside bomber gear just not look right, nevermind the ethics.
I could understand placing a single bolt, but two seems somewhat overkill.
Ross, just to be clear - it's not something I would personally do, but at the same time having an extra single (handrilled) bolt is not something I personally would lose much sleep over.

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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by Hilton » Tue Dec 15, 2009 6:55 pm

Ross: with you
Adam: superb work on Wolfberg mate
Greg: Many years ago Tony Dick and Chris Lomax put up a route to the left of Blood is Sweeter Than Honey. Their hope is that young climbers will have fun re-opening it and leave it unmarked again.

The big discussions on this topic have been going on "off-air" and in a constructive and friendly way. There has been fantastic progress, amidst a lot of hard climbing. The last week has included visiting legend Kevin Smith and local legend Ed February with us locals up at Milner. And for the last few days at Wolfberg for Snorty's birthday bash. Their input has been superb. Jeremy has been totally involved. Adam has been awesome. Lots of guys are playing a big role.

Ross Suter
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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by Ross Suter » Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:42 pm

I'm with you on this one Adam. I'll happily spend time chopping bolts that don't need to be there and violate our trad climbing ethics. Thanks for removing bolts at Wolfberg this past weekend! Hopefully you removed bolts on the two routes on the right side near the lower entrance of the 'Gaper' Crack?! I opened a trad route here many years ago and it got retro-bolted by some Euro, together with an adjacent route, despite the natural gear being in abundance! If not, I'll go there to do the 'chopping' job!

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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by adamr » Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:08 pm

Indeed. The routes at the mouth of the main gaper gulley. In fact there are 3 lines very close to each other that have been bolted. I took 11 bolts out cleaning one of them. Will hopefully go back to finish the job in jan or feb.
Adam Roff

Ross Suter
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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by Ross Suter » Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:39 am

Met some Spanish climbers at the Hole on Tuesday. They have opened a 10-pitch route, Great White (Shark), up on the left side of Yellowwood Amphitheatre. Some bolts were placed on lead, but only where really needed I think. Robert Zipplies gave the one guy his card and asked him to send him the route info. This guy has given route info to Ross McBride already. He seems to be a pretty hardcore climber, having climbed some serious sounding routes in Europe/ Spain, INXS on Great Spitzkop, 'Newborn' on Yellowwood. So, I don't think there will be bolts on this new route where they are not absolutely needed.
It would seem that Yellowwood is being developed at a fast and furious rate .. but by visitors! Us locals should head up there soon to see if we can plug a gap or two in that classic wall, before there are none left to plug ...!?

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Re: Yellowwood & Chess Pieces pics.

Post by XMod » Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:17 am

Well lets face it six routes (done by locals) in sixty years isnt exactly a blistering pace of development!! Time to pull finger (on appropriate edges and pockets :wink: ) or lose out to foreigners who will put up routes in whatever way they see fit!

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