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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:27 pm 
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Location: Johannesburg
Real Name: Gary Bernstein
Hi,

We noticed on our climbs today at kings kloof that there were a couple of hangers loose. The only 2 routes we climbed lead were dragon slayer and crazy flying demons, and both had very loose hangers. The bolts seemed secure, but we did not have tools or anything to tighten up. The nuts were almost completely off on 3 of the bolts. We hand tightened them down just to prevent them coming off completely and getting lost

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:58 pm 
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:21 am 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
17 spanner, and the will to solve your own problems should eliminate this concern.

I also recommend volenteering your time to help re-bolt crags when need be as a way of both giving back to the community and learning how much effort goes into the infrastructure you take for granted every weekend

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:03 am 
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I keep vowing to redo some of the anchors at Kings.

I agree with the previous post, but would go on to say that if you are going to bolt then you should do a decent job. Of course what a "decent job" is is the hard bit. Personally putting up chains that could rust & holding them on with washers is a bit questionable, particularly when you put hangers on the rest of the climb...

So yes, it may seem over the top but if one always used 316 stainless components then a climb becomes expensive, but if you equip the top anchors at least with stainless hangers & maillons that can be replaced when worn then you have a lasting solution. Personally this appeals more to me then hearing that bolts have been chopped, covered up & new ones added right next to them - that just does not sound sustainable.

So what I am saying is that if your line is not terrible...hopefully you did not spend all that time putting up a bad line...then equip it with stuff that will last - even inland- otherwise when it does rust it just creates more work & leaves a legacy as to how cheap you as the bolter were.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:35 pm 
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Real Name: Kevin Dingle
Well said Warren


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:40 pm 
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Location: Waterval Boven
Well said Old Smelly.

On the loose hanger topic, it is a pity that hangers are wrongly designed. The hole should be on the right so that loading force rather "tightens" the nut.

Also, when you tighten the nut with your 17mm spanner, be sure that the hole side of the hanger is situated with the arrow pointing down and not with the flat side completely vertical - this will encourage the nut to screw loose when load is taken on the hanger. So the plate of the hanger should always be at a 30` - 45`angle, depending on the design of the hanger.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:03 pm 
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Real Name: Kevin Dingle
For Clarity


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Location: Johannesburg
Real Name: Gary Bernstein
Its not that I am lazy or believe it is someone else's responsibility, Its just my climbing experience is limited and am still learning. I hadn't come across a loose hanger before so never considered the idea to carry a spanner in my pack, so couldn't resolve the problem myself at kings kloof. I have now got the 17mm spanner that will be a part of my pack for future repairs.

As far as rebolting, I would gladly assist should someone need a set of hands, but it would only be on easier routes (17 or less) and with some initial guidance, again due to experience.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:45 pm 
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Real Name: Kevin Dingle
On that note..

Is there a group like ARF in the JHB region. I was involved in Cape Town.

Who does the maintenance and re bolting in JHB?

How does someone get involved?

Kevin


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:55 am 
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Contact MCSA with regards bolting - they provide bolts & assistance to people who ask nicely I think.

@Pyro - there should be no need to carry a spanner around with you in most cases & you are not expected to go around tightening bolts - but if you care about your safety you will do exactly as you did. By the way there is also a need to not overtighten bolts & a thread on this somewhere around here. Ideally a torque wrench should be used & nylock nuts but it goes back to who is equipping the route...

I did like that other thread that tells one what bolts to use...the whole system is only as strong as it's weakest link...in this case the rusty chains at the top I am guessing...

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