Peers Cave Bolts

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:20 am
Real Name: Stephen Pearson

Peers Cave Bolts

Post by StephenPearson »

Whilst on our holiday to South Africa, we sampled a lot of the climbing and was blown away by how good it was! Here is a little story about one of our days! We visited Peers Cave, and did not really have much topo info to go on, (sometimes it is quite nice to just go to a crag and climb what you think looks good). So we did a few routes, and then I tried what I think could be the route 'Trump' (we walked past Amadeus wall under the big overhang with the 9a looking holdless boulder project, then its the first route to the right of this). It looked nice and pumpy however I did take note that the bolts looked pretty shit. So I clipped the first bolt, bouldered out the first moves and got onto the big ledge. Clipped the next two bolts giving them a really good tug on the draw to see if they at least could hold that force, (as I was obviously aware of the corrosion and age of a lot of the metal wear around). I ended up saying take to my partner very tentatively, whilst still holding on at the third bolt. When she pulled the rope tight, the first bolt exploded and snapped (on the bolt shaft/sleeve). I then emptied my trousers and down-climbed the route removing my second and third draws from the route as I went. All very exciting!
I don't think this route or crag gets much attention, but if anyone reads this and knows the guys who are in charge of the re-bolting work, then you may want to pass this info on. They obviously can then decide if the remaining routes here and this in particular are worth re-bolting. This route should not be attempted as it is clearly pretty dangerous, but the lack of the first bolt should deter anyone else the 'added adrenaline factor' I got the privilege to sample!

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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: Peers Cave Bolts

Post by Thermophage »

Hi Stephen,

Noted thanks. We have a list of routes and when/if they were re-bolted.
I will check this and perhaps try to prioritize Peers for our next re-bolting exercise if the committee all agree.

What you experienced is freaking shit though!

Warren G
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: Peers Cave Bolts

Post by Warren G »

I rebolted Trump at ARF's last meet there using glue-ins, and I made a few changes: Straightened the bolt line, made crucial bolts easier to clip but most importantly (and upon the FA's request) I moved the chains to take the proud arrete. The line is now badass, and I'm keen to send!
Sandbagging is a dirty game
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