Dodgy bolts on Tocando El Vacio, Cogmans

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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KaiPF
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:13 pm

Dodgy bolts on Tocando El Vacio, Cogmans

Post by KaiPF »

HI everyone,

Jed and I went to give Tocando El Vacio (26), Cogmans, Montagu a go this weekend. The bolts were corroded AF, so we bailed. We'd like to rebolt it, but have no experience rebolting so we'd like to learn. Anyway, don't climb it (unless you plan not to fall).

here are some pics.
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778fe686-0c1d-42a8-b0a0-2bb3dc6bed7d.JPG
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IMG_1312.jpg
IMG_1312.jpg (143.29 KiB) Viewed 4382 times


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justin
Posts: 3924
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu/Cape Town
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Re: Dodgy bolts on Tocando El Vacio, Cogmans

Post by justin »

Having been up there sometime ago (a long time ago) and thinking similar things, you guys were my hero's last week!!
That was until I saw you abbing off :lol:

Contact me and we can make a plan. With the state of (corrosion) and a farmer in Ashton telling me about the sea air that he receives, I still question replacing with Glue-in's @AndyDavies ?
Or
It may just be dodgy Spanish hardware :evil:
Attachments
Tocando_El_Vacio_Cogmans_buttress_2019_june.jpg
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justin@CapeTownClimbing.com
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NatureBoi
Posts: 403
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Dodgy bolts on Tocando El Vacio, Cogmans

Post by NatureBoi »

If the re-bolters have the skillset. I would always go with glue-ins. This goes for new routes too, as we would not be having this thread if that was the case.

It would be better to re-bolt the classic/5-star routes in Montagu first.

Esp in the grade range of 13--> 24

A 26 multi-pitch 3 star should be lower on the list.

Cheers
Cormac
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NatureBoi
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Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Dodgy bolts on Tocando El Vacio, Cogmans

Post by NatureBoi »

Rusty bolt.JPG
Rusty bolt.JPG (121.76 KiB) Viewed 4256 times
Bolt info.JPG
Bolt info.JPG (61.23 KiB) Viewed 4256 times
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