Hi There
Just wanted to warn everyone.
Also if anyone who has climbed this route has any info to please let me know if I'm correct in assuming that the far right chains at the top are the end chains for power pigeon? these are very dangerous to rap from and it should be stated on guides for future climbers of the route (there are old u bolt anchors as well as new chains here)
Had a pretty hairy Experience on Sunday.
After completing the route and belaying my partner to the top. (The far right chains which we assumed were the top out for this route!!) we decided to rap down rather than walk out because of the wind. The guide says that the rap is 25 m to the stance however rapping from those chains and with the wind being so strong blowing away from the mountain I ended up 15m away from the chains I was aiming for and using a 60 m rope still could not touch the rock so ended up 2 m above an outcrop with a 40m drop right next to me.
Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and wanting to warn any prospective climbers of this route. In retrospect we should have rapped off the anchors to the left however we did not think this was needed at the time. Neither I nor my partner are very experienced however both of us have been climbing for a number of years and so I'm wondering how this could never have happened to anyone else in the past.
I have no wish to get into a debate with anyone about wrong and right here I simply wish to alert others to the possible danger.

Cheers
Greg

Hi Greg,

I'm assuming you are referring to G Peckham's guide of Eagles/Everest? If you are, then how is it possible not to read the warning it gives about the ab?

RD Quote: "It is probably best to belay at the bolts on the ledge and then walk off to the left and back down the gully. If you choose to ab be aware (in bold in the RD) that the top pitch is just on half a (50m) rope length. You also end up hanging out in space and it can be diffcult to reach the stance"

Apologies to Gavin for plagiarising his work here. Also to any prospective climbers of Power Pigeon, its much quicker to walk down than to ab.

Hi Ringo
Nope the guide I got came from the internet (I don't have it on me now so can't say which site I will need to look) but on this guide it does say 50 m rope just makes the ab however it does not say be aware of Danger and since we were using a 60 m we thought we were well within the length required. However the chains I mention are way to the right I do not think they are the correct finishing chains but want to know why they are there and just wanted to warn people not to EVER ab off of these (As mentioned there is a new set of Chains as well as old U bolt Anchors here)
Cheers
Greg

As a matter of interest, which site did you get it from ?

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Found an Rd on http://www.rocksport.co.za:81/climbing/freestate/mteverest/mteverest.htm

Hi Greg,

There are 3 routes which top out at the cave at Eagles Head. Pumping Peacock (which is to the left of Power Pigeon), Power Pigeon and Alcatraz which is to the right of Power Pigeon. It sounds like you abed of Alcatraz, cos if you abed off these chains you would end up way to the right of the next ab chains for Power Pigeon and will bring you to the huge drop off you mentioned.

Nevertheless, I would suggest getting a copy of Gavins RD (link: http://www.climbing.co.za/Order_EagleMountain.asp), if you're planning to do more climbing at Eagles/Everest. It's well worth it as it it is very comprehensive and may have helped avert the epic you had.

Have fun ....climb safe.
(As a matter of interest....is it Gred Devine?)

Thanks for the suggestion Ringo will look into getting Gavins RD.
And it's Greg De Gidts not Devine

Cheers
Greg

FYI this is not the site the guide we used came from however it also has similar (not enough warning) about the chains on the right for power pigeon.
http://www.rocksport.co.za:81/climbing/ ... verest.htm
Also Alkatraz goes left of Power Pigeon on the final pitch according to this and our guide.
Again as mentioned we were in error however I simply want folks to be aware of the danger for future. As Ringo said walking off this route is a far better option it would seem.

Cheers
Greg