Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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belz
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Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:03 pm

Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by belz » Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:05 am

Is there any plan to rebolt the routes at the Boneyard, Kloof. Many of the expansion bolts are in extremely poor condition and need to be redone soon!
I was climbing Dance Macabre and the route to the left of it and the state of the bolts wasn't very comforting at all, I had a look at many of the other routes and all the same story.
I see that someone has already rebolted Satanic Mechanic, is this the beginning of the rebolting of the area or was the intention only to rebolt that route?
:?: :cry: :?: :cry: :?: :cry: :?: :cry:

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ScottS
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Real Name: Scott Sinclair
Location: Durban, South Africa

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by ScottS » Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:58 am

Hi Chris.

All of the confidence inspiring stainless steel u-bolts that you'll
see scattered around the Boneyard are a result of the last rebolting
mission a few years back (thanks due to Dave Drummond for making it
happen :thumleft: ). I guess that time has moved on and the bolts we considered
"not too bad" at that time are now "less than rad".

Part of the entry fee for the KZN bouldering league competitions goes
towards funding the replacement of old and dodgy bolts. This means
there probably are some funds available (there would be more if more
people took part in these comps), but the project needs a
champion. I'm very happy to turn up, offer advice and help replace
bolts (no doubt a few others can be encouraged too), but I'm not
offering to take the lead.

If you're keen (or can convince someone else who's useful to be keen),
please chat to Dave about what funds might be available...
At the chaaaaains boet!!

Warren G
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Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by Warren G » Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:23 am

with some of the routes half need, while the other half don't, eg: Tsunami

as we are talking boneyard has anyone thought of chopping the bush at base of Surfinn with the Alien? fun route, but a wench to work thanks to it. speak to Illona
Sandbagging is a dirty game

belz
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Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:03 pm

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by belz » Wed Apr 08, 2009 3:48 pm

Hi Scott
For sure, I'm willing to rebolt a few routes at the Boneyard and elsewhere, I'd feel confident rebolting with ss exapansion bolts but if the job needs to be done with glue-ins then Dave, or someone else in the know, should give me a hand as I've never installed a glue in and wouldn't even know what adhesive to use.
Your thoughts?

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ScottS
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Real Name: Scott Sinclair
Location: Durban, South Africa

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by ScottS » Wed Apr 08, 2009 4:46 pm

Reckon a good place to start would be an inventory of routes that need work. I think Dave still has the list of the bolts that were replaced in the last round. Sort by popularity and tick them one at a time..

Glue-ins a pain in the a$$ to do properly, but most durable as they're not susceptible to over-tightening and the dreaded SCC.
At the chaaaaains boet!!

DaveD
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Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by DaveD » Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:35 am

Thanks for the heads up belz.
Scott is correct. A few years back we replaced the worst bolts and felt the rest were alright. I suspect the alright ones are now approaching bad.

I have got some funds from the league, although funds are tight this year as our climbers will be traveling to Cape Town for the final.

I think U bolts will be better in the damp conditions of the Boneyard but we can chat.
Feel the Qui

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ScottS
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Real Name: Scott Sinclair
Location: Durban, South Africa

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by ScottS » Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:27 pm

Some more data. I went climbing there yesterday and had a look.

Voodoo Guru has shiny looking bolts when viewed from the ground
(Newish wedge anchors and hangers, but didn't go up - unsure if s/s)

Dance Macabre has 2 s/s u-bolts but the rest are scary (needs work)

The Grim Reaper made me not want to fall off (needs work)

Flintstone's Kid (needs work)

First 3 bolts on Vultures Feast (need work)

The other 'easy' routes (below 21) appear fine.

If I were to prioritise:

1. Vultures feast (3 bolts to replace)
2. Grim Reaper (10 bolts + anchors)
3. Dance Macabre (4 bolts + anchors)
4. The rest...
At the chaaaaains boet!!

Dillon
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:14 am

Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by Dillon » Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:24 pm

If memory serves me correctly, Flintstone's Kid is desperately needing just one bolt and hanger. And it happens to be the one you have to clip just after that little overlap, when the route gets steeper and your arms get pumped!

DaveD
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Re: Poor condition bolts at Boneyard, Kloof

Post by DaveD » Wed Apr 15, 2009 1:30 pm

Ah, Roger replaced the bolts on "Voodu Gooru" last year so they are good and new SS. He may have also done some work on the routes left of that but I don't recall. Funding came from the KZN BL comps.
Feel the Qui

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