Does anybody no whether the older routes such as Undercling Route and the routes to the left of the Undercling Routeshave had there bolts replaced recently. I am considering rebolting the routes for the ARF, but not if they are fairly new. If they are new I will replace the bolts on the easier climbs at The Hole.

As far as I know, the routes to the left of the Pinnacle haven't been re-bolted - and some of them have pretty dodgy looking rusty anchors... I seem to remember the Pinnacle Route itself having super dodgy bolts - I think they could all do with a bit of re-bolting attention! Thanks and keep up the good work!

Hi Russell,
When can we get the Waterfront crag onto the list?
Deon Rossouw of Cape Nature has given permission, with one minor condition - and we've (PW section) raised most of the cash for the bolts.

_________________
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

That pinnacle route should just be removed period. It shouldnt have been bolted in the first place. Just solo up it if you really must climb it, but attaching yourself to something so obviously unstable is just plain daft.

My plan is to start with Undercling and Who Knows as they get quite a bit of traffic. Concerning Waterworld Andy will deal with that.

Undercling and Who knows have been rebolted with the ARF glue-ins. All the old bolts and hangars have been removed with the exception of the first bolt on Who knows (grinder battery went flat). We will remove it when we replace the other bolts left of Undercling, which are next on our list. Thanks to Rob Weyer and Ralph Knorr for the assistance.

My crew and I will be ARF bolting at Lakeside on Friday Afternoon and possibly Saturday (weather permitting of course). The routes affected will be the first 5 routes starting from the left hand side. Once those 5 are finished Lakeside will be left in peace for a few years until it is time to replace the routes to the right of Who Knows.

Todays ARF session has been rained out. We will be bolting at Lakeside tomorrow morning from 8am.

The 5 routes starting from the left have been ARFed. If you find any pieces of bolts lying around please remove it as it is not possible to find all of the ones that dropped after being ground off. Any glue on the rock chips off fairly easily so feel free to remove what I may have missed.

I read in an earlier post by Greg (I think) that some people think the "pinnacle route" is a waste of bolts. I am planning to ARF the route on my next excursion to Lakeside. Is there any logical reason that I shouldn't?

Yeah you'd be wasting bolts! Seriously not every single piece of climbable rock needs to have steel sprouting out of it. Whats wrong with having an interesting feature like that left inviolate, just to admire? There are several routes on the peninsula that have been bolted in recent times that should not have been. It seems stupid to perpetuate and endorse this trend of poor quality routes being bolted. Besides all that the entire edifice is unstable, the gap between it and the crag has slowly been widening over the years. Rather use those bolts to open a decent 4 or 5 star line somewhere.

What logical reason do you have for wanting to rebolt it?

Objections aside, well done for the hard work done in re-quipping the lines on the left, those at least are of high quality.

My view is either the routes need to be rebolted or chopped. The fact of the matter is that there are people climbing there on bolts that are getting more and more dodgy as time passes. The risk of bolt failure is as high on route that is perceived to be crappy as it is on a 5 star route.

I support your views Russell, the routes need to be made safe. I just have a standpoint that the fact that bolts do rust and die should be ample motivation to ensure that, when they are placed at all, it opens up climbs of the highest caliber only. Equipping sub-standard lines is a waste of precious resources (time, money, equipment etc.)

Anyway, quality is a difficult thing to quantify! Different things appeal to different ppl. I fear I may just be a voice in the wilderness on this one. Look at how popular the climb is and how many ascents it sees (is it very chalked up?), and go off that. Im certainly not going to hold it apainst you if opt to re-equip it. It is just my personal opinion that the strictest standards should be adhered to when chosing what to bolt. I want to find a 4/5 star line before I'll pick up a drill. That said there are 3 star routes bolted everywhere and Ive equipped my fair share of them. Lets just avoid equipping mediocre 1/2 star lines.

Thanks to the ARF crew for all the great work they are doing.
Just one question, have the top anchors of the trad route "Crack of Dawn - 17" been replaced?

To my knowledge "Crack of dawn" does not have dedicated anchors and uses the Anchors of the relatively new (read Charles Howell) route to the left of it. If I am correct them we will not be replacing anchors soon as the routes was problably only bolted less than 4 years ago.

On "The pinnacle route" problem I will rebolt it as it appears to get some traffic. Thanks for the input X-mod. I couldn't agree more that more thought needs to be put into where one is going to bolt. A bad route is a waste of time, energy and scars the rock unnecesarily.