Bronkies - chopped anchors?

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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proze
Posts: 453
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Bronkies - chopped anchors?

Post by proze » Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:00 pm

Hi all. I started up New Year's Revolution (huuuuge sandbag for 22, compared to other 22s at the crag - the first few moves are staunch!) this morning, only to find that the mid-point chains on Of Mice and Men, that New Year's Revolution also used as a bolt, have been chopped. It's hard to see from the bottom, so I had to back off the route or face a very long run-out past the chopped bolts/chains/anchors. I chose the former. I did Firefly last week and didn't look over, so I don't know if this is a recent thing or not. Can canyone shed any light on why this was done and by whom?

DarkHorse
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Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:51 am

Re: Bronkies - chopped anchors?

Post by DarkHorse » Fri Jun 19, 2009 4:52 pm

Try climbing a little higher and you will find the set of chains, no run out at all. The chopped bolts have been there for ever and were placed in a really silly place - therefore chopped and replaced a little higher.

The start of the route is very technical and if you do not see all the holds then yes it is rather hard, but use the correct holds and then it is not that bad.

Happy climbing

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proze
Posts: 453
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Re: Bronkies - chopped anchors?

Post by proze » Sun Jul 19, 2009 8:25 pm

Ahem. My bad. The start is fine when you actually see, and use, all the grips there. :) And it doesn't go up and left as I thought it did, but ends halfway up the wall. Ends up being a really nice route! Thanks Ken & Ian! :afro:

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