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who else loves this climb
i do 86%  86%  [ 6 ]
i dont cause im a sissy 14%  14%  [ 1 ]
Total votes : 7
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:08 pm
Posts: 20
Location: durban
Real Name: clinton coetzee
hi
fyi if you a rebolt guy,the bolts on this route (its the 19 around the corner everyone doesnt like) are fairly badly rusted,(still working as ive had a few whippers on the bad ones) and are getting due for a change. if anyone does rebolt this route if i could make 1 request to move the last bolt before the chains down about 500mm onto the "bulge" to the right of where you hang on the jug to make the current clip.
thanks for reading

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:34 pm
Posts: 48
"If you are a rebolt guy...." this really gets my goat! Every sport climber should be a "rebolt guy" by default. If you enjoy clipping them for years on end then find some that have to be replaced ... then get on with it. Its the old consumers vs producers debate. Lots of consumers and very few producers (at R750 per route in hardware these days!). Strangely consumers also feel its the first ascensionists responsibility to replace his aging bolts. If they are rusted to s##t the job needs doing. Its your arse thats gonna hit the deck when it snaps - not mine!

but I rant.....pm me your details and I will get a drill to you.

on a lighter note: The route was opened by Gerald Camp who tirelessly has taken thousands of school kids climbing. One such kid (14yrs old) like any climber fell off this line and yelled "F##k!" He then remembered his Geography teacher was belaying him and redfaced immediately followed with "Sorry" then "Thanks" - his crazy teacher called the route Fucsorrythanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:26 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:10 pm
Posts: 137
Location: Durban, South Africa
Real Name: Scott Sinclair
A F&$*ing cool line and a great story behind the name!!

There is loads of rebolting to do in KZN, but it's hard work for little reward. That's why peoples goats are so easily got ;-)

One way everyone can help out is to enter and support the KZN bouldering league every year. Apart from being great fun, the events raise money to help purchase hardware that can make *your* life safer.

When you PM Roger, get my number and give me a call, I'm happy to come along and "show you the ropes". Grafitti Limbo needs some shiny stainless steel, we can make it a two-for-one deal..

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:42 am 
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Joined: Tue May 26, 2009 2:06 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Durban
Real Name: Trent Burnett
Dude, dodgy clips separate men from boys- if you were climbing a route that you deemed "lead-out" would you ask someone to put another bolt in so you feel safer? I'm afraid it doesn't work like that. Perhaps it's your fear of falling that's preventing you from making the clip? And if so, then can you put it down to the fact that the bolt might snap, or is that just a convenient excuse you're leading yourself to believe? If that is the fact, then prove it to yourself that it's not the power of your mind that's holding you back, but a bit more technique or strength is what's needed. Replace the bolts before or after you send, but keep the bolts where they belong.

Asking for beta is also another option- you'll be surprised what sneaky grips others might have found. After the last bolt, when you go for the left hand side-pull "jug" pop out again with your left hand again to a really big guy that's difficult to see when you're up there.

Trent

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
Posts: 71
Fucsorithanxs is a bit of a problem. It has been so grossly overbolted. I suggest that whoever does the job remove the 3rd, 5th and 6th bolt, and replace them with bolt a little to the left of the heelhook below the small bulge aout to the left. The 5th bolt does look better now after a few falls I took on it. The shock load is usually sufficient to shake off some rust flakes to expose the better metal beneath it.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:33 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 780
Real Name: Greg Hart
Sounds like you guys in KZN should make the effort to replace the bolts in Kloof with glue ins. The kloof is definitely close enough to pick up sea air and Durban's climate is super humid. Its worth the effort putting glue in bolts they last longer and are much less likely to fail dramatically. Im afraid that will knock Rogers cost estimates for six tho! More like R1200 per route with glueins!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:08 pm
Posts: 20
Location: durban
Real Name: clinton coetzee
in response to mr Nattrass ,i would gladly do some re-bolting if an experienced re-bolter were to show me the do's and dont's,as awesome as it would be to just go ahead and re-bolt it would be less awesome if i duffed up and someone died due to ignorance on my part.
in response to Trent ,the lead out isnt a problem it would just be a more comfortable clipping position.i sent this route a while ago(i dont know why people dislike this route its friken great),missed that big jug after the left side pull(and fell) so many times before i found it and managed to send.
and to Finnish off,i was at rumdoodle today and saw it has been re-bolted so thanks to the guys that did it.if you want some help on other climbs give me a shout im keen to see how its done and whats needed etc.and does anyone know how the old first bolt broke off with a big chunk of rock?
shot
clint

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:45 am 
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I bolted the line again, but couldn't get the old bolts off - needed an Allen key. Will get around to it. You have been falling/hanging on 8mm drop in anchors, about 3cm deep, and by the looks of them, they would have lasted another generation. Somebody needs to invent a portable X-Ray device so we can examine the bolts before spending money on replacing them. Now as far as the chunk of rock with the mangled bolt goes, rumours abound, but the blood trail on the scramble seems evidence of a sad story. Anyways, now get on Steel Junction. I am hoping to G-Point it on Thursday. If you can make it Clinton, tell me and I will show you how to bolt.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:08 pm
Posts: 20
Location: durban
Real Name: clinton coetzee
hi
i gave steel junction a go on sunday and its pretty awesome(the 21 to the right that is),just gave it 1 go cause i was trying for my redpoint on sexy pets and politics.as for thursday i would be unable to go as i have work during week days but if you do any on a weekend give me a shout/sms 0845141054,im really keen to learn
thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
Posts: 71
I am glad that Rumdoodle sees so much activity. The 21 version of Steel Junction (the so called direct), gives the main line a bad name.
I think it should be called "Steel Diversion!"


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