beware the crux hanger on wet dreams ( lower silvermine). It is completely loose!

Take along a size 17 spanner and tighten the nut next time you're there - you could even tighten it with your fingers. As long as it's not the bolt itself that is loose, and only the hanger, then it's just a loose nut.
Even better would be to buy a stainless steel spring washer and replace the old washer. However, DO NOT tighten the nut too tight - and in case I wasn't clear enough, DO NOT overtighten the nut.

This is just my opinion, but for safety reasons, surely the ONLY methods of tightening should be a torque wrench or fingers?

I appreciate stu that you stressed not to over tighten it, but without feedback on a gauge, people will crank it too far....you know, so that it won't come undone again and hurt someone!

zb.

Fair enough.
Just so that no mistakes are made - tighten it so that it is just beyond what you would be able to do with your own fingers.
Keep in mind thought that if you do only use your fingers, then replacing the original washer with a spring washer might not work.

I guess my point is that loose terms like "just beyond" and "not too tight" are dangerous. There are specific torque ratings for these things and beyond that rating you are starting to cause dangerous damage. If someone takes a spanner and over tightens it then their excuse will be "I tightened it enough to stay on".

In summary, I believe the only correct and safe way is to use a torque wrench. Everything else is just a guess and therefore could be (although not necessarily) dangerous.

zb.

Are you refering to people who actually bolt the routes - because I doubt that those who do the bolting would actually use a torque wrench.
I can understand your point for those unfamiliar with drilling, bolt placments, etc.

Not that many ppl have access to a torque wrench, besides the standard 30Nm is far tighter than the nut actually needs to be. The less tension in the bolt the better, 18-20Nm is ample to stop the hanger spinning. Once the bolt sleeve is seated it aint goint anywhere so you dont need all that torque to keep things in place.

@Wonky, throwing a wobbly coz you came across a loose hanger is gay, just tighten it with your fingers and climb on. Maybe next time you do the route take a wrench with you and gently tighten the nut - simple. The database is meant for bolts that are rusted to shit and look like their gonna explode next time someone falls on them, if you find one of those then let us know. Weeeny post!

Torque is cheap - shut up and climb!

Xmod: Why reprimand Wonky for his 'weeny' post? The guy might be new to climbing, so cut him some slack. We all go through a learning curve, yes? At least he took the time and made the effort to post a warning. Also, be careful in your use of the word 'gay'.

Oooh Riaan ur so pc. Most of the posts here are puke boring and pointless. And dont try and lecture me on how I must be, u sound like someone's grand mother - supagay.

Ideally, yes. However, I appreciate that most bolters aren't using one and one hopes that because they're making the effort to place bolts they are at least doing it safely (in so far as they are aware of the dangers of over torquing).



There is not a lot that can be done to stop someone cranking a bolt but at least if someone now reads the post they can see their options.

zb.

Geeeeeees Xmod. Long week ? No worries guv....long weekend ahead....REEEEELLLLLAAAAAX.

zb.

10mm expansion bolts require 30 N.m. to set them correctly. Thereafter you can do what xmod says ie 15 - 20 N.m. For glue in threaded 10mm rods for argument sake they recommend no more than 20 N.m. In my opinion you would have a lot less stress corrosion failues if the amount of torque was reduced on the nut after bolt placement. In fact if there is no stress in the bolt it cannot fail due to SCC.

That's like asking a coke addict to slow down while driving...