Quantcast
It is currently Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:10 pm

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 12:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3037
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Good article on climbing shoes sizes - Are your Climbing Shoes too Tight?

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 3:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Posts: 179
Real Name: Kevin Dingle
Totally agree,

I wear a size 9.5 normal shoe and a size 9 climbing shoe, Snug but still comfortable.

The last thing you want is your feet sore, numb or aching when you are on the crux move of a project.

But I'd be interested to hear what others think?

Kevin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 3:29 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:23 pm
Posts: 120
Location: Gauteng
Completely agree. No need to cut a trad day short just because of overly tight shoes


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 4:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Posts: 179
Real Name: Kevin Dingle
Maybe Boulderers have a different opinion


Attachments:
Climbing cartoon.png
Climbing cartoon.png [ 161.92 KiB | Viewed 1280 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:09 pm 
Online
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 331
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
lol Kev...I agree...a LOT of boulderers like the stupidly small shoe BS. There's simply no need. I think she design has evolved (no pun intended) to the point that tight shoes are perfect and downsizing to painful gives fokkol extra advantage ...
I've done both and TBH...at my grades I may as well be climbing in entry levels...I'm just a little bit of a shoe whore :P


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 10:07 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
Posts: 456
Real Name: Everyday Troll
:lol:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 10:35 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 376
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
Buy a pair of La Sportiva shoes in your street shoes and then go and attempt your project. I'll bring popcorn... :jocolor:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 10:36 am 
Online
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 331
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
I wore the Scorpions in my street shoe size for a while...Bouldered 7b in them :thumright


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 11:02 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 263
I think the point in the article is about fit as opposed to whether you can just pick your size & shove it on.

That being said I think that Mok makes a point. For some people it is a matter of taking a Lasportiva shoe in size 9, putting it on and it fits - but then they are lucky not smart. Personally I can say that the size 9 (43) Testarossa fits me perfectly, the Solution fits me in size 41 (two sizes smaller) and the Muira sort of fits me in 41 but not really so I would never buy this shoe as it clearly does not work for my foot, whereas the Testarossa is just too classy and expensive for me. So the reality is that you will have to hunt around for something that fits you, meets your requirement and your budget - big surprise - this seems to be the same outcome as the boot thread, but the real point is that you probably should start with your actual shoe size now days and not immediately go down 2 sizes.

I agree with the article - shoe fitting requires better understanding and not just automatic down sizing. Pity boulderers are more thick than the rest of us or they would get it too! :lol:

_________________
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 12:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
I though the point was that rock shoe fitting should be down to finding what suits your foot, not following trends and styles, A bit like ski boot fitting. I have yet to find a red chilli shoe that fits my feet well, but never found a 5.10 that doesn't! I've tried loads of other things in between and go through a ritual of trying everything new on the market each time I need a new pair.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 2:46 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Posts: 179
Real Name: Kevin Dingle
Also When you find a shoe that fits and you are happy with, usually a good idea to buy a few pairs.

That way if they discontinue the line you still have your awesome shoes.

Kevin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 3:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 376
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
Thermophage wrote:
I wore the Scorpions in my street shoe size for a while...Bouldered 7b in them :thumright

Too bad, would have sent 8A if you'd had shoes that fit... :p


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 3:40 pm 
Online
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 331
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
God dammit! I knew it! :P


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 3:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am
Posts: 96
This is what one of the manufacturers says on their shoebox. Good advice.


Attachments:
shoes2.jpg
shoes2.jpg [ 64.02 KiB | Viewed 1070 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 4:21 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:09 pm
Posts: 15
Real Name: Immo Bartens
My left foot is a whole size larger than my right foot.
=Kak one!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 4:31 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 774
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Chris F wrote:
but never found a 5.10 that doesn't!


You obviously never tried the old Anasazi laceup. You needed triangular heels for them...

_________________
Happy climbing
Nic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 4:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Posts: 179
Real Name: Kevin Dingle
A "not so subtle" 5-10 advert

:wink:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 6:51 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 263
Never! Who could be so crafty?

_________________
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 10:32 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Nic Le Maitre wrote:
Chris F wrote:
but never found a 5.10 that doesn't!


You obviously never tried the old Anasazi laceup. You needed triangular heels for them...


What, the old pinks? Done some of my hardest ascents ever in them. heel was fine, used to get a little split just behind the heel, but never a major problem.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 12:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 774
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Image

The old design on the left, the new on the right

Really?

Please post a pic of your heels, I want to see this :lol:

_________________
Happy climbing
Nic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 3:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
The left, pretty certain. Will need to go find them in the festering tub in the garage - they were relegated to DWS shoes after the toes blew out.

You want to see my bare heels, the shoe heels or my heels in the shoes? :?:

I know loads of people who used them with no problems.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 6:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 774
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
No feet, ew! I was just kidding. I had a pair for ages, great shoes just couldn't heel hook in them at at all. The new design looks much saner though.

_________________
Happy climbing
Nic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 8:19 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 7:34 am
Posts: 192
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Brenda Marx
I've had several pairs of Cobras and Muiras (both La Sportiva) size 4 (37) which suit my street size 6/7 (39/40) feet beautifully. Then I also had a pair of size 6 (39) Evolv Pontas which would start hurting my feet after a few climbs. Not because of the size, but the shape.
...Sadly, because I found their rubber gripped better than the LaSportiva rubber.
I've climbed routes in size 38 Muiras being able to edge tiny foot holds, and had the joy of using size 39s (with socks on) on a "hard" (relative for me) route as well. Without socks they were too big, but because of the shape I could still heel hook and use fairly small edges.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 10:32 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Nic Le Maitre wrote:
No feet, ew! I was just kidding. I had a pair for ages, great shoes just couldn't heel hook in them at at all. The new design looks much saner though.


I actually found the little "chin" at the back great for heelhooking, up to the point where you would overpressure it, and it would fold and your foot would pop off suddenly.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Thermophage, Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group