Totem cams in SA?
Totem cams in SA?
Is anyone bringing totems into SA (the fancy ones with direct cam loading, not the aliens)? I'd love to test drive one or two - they sound like they often work where other cams don't.
- justin
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Re: Totem cams in SA?
Looking at their website, they don't have a representative in SA.
justin@CapeTownClimbing.com
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- robertbreyer
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Re: Totem cams in SA?
I looked at importing them. Charles owns a pair or two.
Great for aid climbing and pin scars, otherwise no advantage.
Horrendously expensive.
Here's a good review of them:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/ ... /totem-cam
Kind of like the Omega Pacific Link cams - cool concept, but it's hard to beat the BD/DMM/WC double axle design.
Great for aid climbing and pin scars, otherwise no advantage.
Horrendously expensive.
Here's a good review of them:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/ ... /totem-cam
Kind of like the Omega Pacific Link cams - cool concept, but it's hard to beat the BD/DMM/WC double axle design.
Re: Totem cams in SA?
I got one. And don't really use it. Prefer the super light BD. Quite bulky.
Re: Totem cams in SA?
To answer Hector’s question: seems like nobody brings them into SA. (They’re expensive’ niche products.)
If you’re climbing perfect cracks or rails in Cape sandstone or Boven quartzite (or Yosemite granite!) Totems are overkill and regular 13.5 degree BD/WC/etc are plenty good enough. But if you have funky/flaring/shallow placements, Totems are AWESOME. It’s amazing where they’ll stick. They are my go-to piece.
As a Totem owner, I think Andy Kirk has a better review than OGL:
https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/v ... e_them_all
(Note to Rob: in my experience they’re not at all like link-cams, which had a fundamental weakness in the links. More like the Tre belay device: great niche product which never really caught on. Also, they’re not so much an aid device, as the heads are larger than most pin scars. TCUs and C3s better for aid)
Their one big drawback is that they are bulky to rack.
If you’re climbing perfect cracks or rails in Cape sandstone or Boven quartzite (or Yosemite granite!) Totems are overkill and regular 13.5 degree BD/WC/etc are plenty good enough. But if you have funky/flaring/shallow placements, Totems are AWESOME. It’s amazing where they’ll stick. They are my go-to piece.
As a Totem owner, I think Andy Kirk has a better review than OGL:
https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/v ... e_them_all
(Note to Rob: in my experience they’re not at all like link-cams, which had a fundamental weakness in the links. More like the Tre belay device: great niche product which never really caught on. Also, they’re not so much an aid device, as the heads are larger than most pin scars. TCUs and C3s better for aid)
Their one big drawback is that they are bulky to rack.
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Re: Totem cams in SA?
Vertigo gear in cape town stocks them
Re: Totem cams in SA?
@Hector. I have a full set fella. When I come out later this year you can take the whole set for a test drive.
The are now very commonly used in the EU and US and because of their stronger holding power are favoured for slippery rock and winter climbing. And they have really good aid climbing application.
As snort says they take a bit of getting used too on your harness but they have narrow heads and give exceptionally secure placements. They however are not cheap!
The are now very commonly used in the EU and US and because of their stronger holding power are favoured for slippery rock and winter climbing. And they have really good aid climbing application.
As snort says they take a bit of getting used too on your harness but they have narrow heads and give exceptionally secure placements. They however are not cheap!
Re: Totem cams in SA?
I have a green in regular use at yellowwood