Well i don't know if i'm the only beginner climber thats made the mistake of buying shoes online having heard that one should buy them a size or 2 smaller, only to get them and find out they are sized for a midget or mt everest climber with missing didgits;)
Well i paid a fortune for them and being the stubborn and resourcefull bastard that i am, insisted on devising a solution to my predicament, which at the time i though would be my predicament whenever i get new shoes.
And here it is...
1:Basically i put a pick'n'pay bag on each foot, put on a pair of old socks and taped up the ankles

2:Mix 2part poly expanding foam and pour into box just enough to make a layer about 5cm thick, and just before it hardens place feet in box all the while maintaining the stance as though they were in the shoes (flat foot and toes would stretch them too much and c**k up the arch in the sole)

3:Pour in the rest of expanding foam and wait....do not be alarmed, it get's hot, REALLY hot, but i can definately say not enough to enflict burns. Just slight discomfort;) I realise now there are probably easier methods to make a mould of ones feet, plaster cast etc, but i had the resins at my disposal, they're cheap and was bored one sunday.

4:hop around like an idiot because you forgot to put the kitchen knife within close proximity;)

5:Cut box in half between feet and carefully cut along the longitudinal centre line of each foot. You now have a mould

6:take your halves of each foot, melt some wax in a pot and liberally paint the wax onto the inside of the mould. When i sliced mine in half the sock actually sliced with it and is now the inner lining of the mould.

7:place the corresponding halves back together and push some sosatie sticks through the four corners to hold together.

8:now this is where you have better options than my first attempt. I used the expanding foam again and then fibreglassed the 'feet' once i trimmed them down to exact size. I would suggest either cement or plaster of paris, maybe even pour in epoxy. Whatever works for you.

All i can say is it was the best spent 2 hours in my life! I wore them twice from new before i made these, and i couldn't even make one climb without the pain of contorted feet cutting my climb short. i put the fibrefeet in on my off days. They now fit like a glove and i have fibreglass feet for my next new pair of shoes.

um.... what the HELL!!??

What the hell???

basically i dispelled the myth that you need to wear your shoes in to make them comfy;)
my fiber feet are doing all the work:)

oh i see, im sure it works to a certain degree... although im convinced the real thing cant be substituted.

The rubber and leather needs to be repetitively stretched and released (happens during climbing only). to become malleable.

The foot itself does a good deal of \"conforming\" i think. Your skin toughens on points of extreme pressure which reduces pain, which only happens after repetitive use.

Be careful that your fiber feet dont permanently stretch those shoes to the degree that they actually become semi-loose fitting In which case the comfiness is bad.

There are two types of comfy:
1) Earned and advantageous comfy.
2) Pseudo(loose fit) comfy.

Dude! surely it would have been a lot easier to simply order another pair of shoes? Click click done!?

you could have saved yourself a lot of trouble. next time buy a pair of Evolv shoes. they are made from synthetic leather and so dont stretch. you just buy your street shoe size and be done with it.

I suppose having made such a nifty mould there is no stopping you to make a whole person out of plastic, you can even make yourself a ‘special lady friend’ who can wear your shoes in for you, maybe even keep your company on those cold lonely night out in the bush. You can give her a name and make her hold your hot cup of coffee when your fingers are still too sore from climbing, the ideas are endless! Dude, a really big part of climbing involves pain and pain management eg: small sharp holds on a cold day, bundu bashing to explore a new crag, wearing in your new climbing shoes. It’s all part of it, but then again, different strokes for different folks.

Rob! Advertising on the forum is frowned upon, naughty naughty! That said my latest pair of evolvs are super comfy straight out the box!

Come on, X-mode, can't deny Rob an honest living. I got a personal message from him following my nasty fall on the top pitch of Butterfly, offering me a special deal on a new rope