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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 138
Can anyone give insight into how much the uppers of 5.10 Anasazi Velcros and the Evolv Optimus Prime shoes stretch?

I'm overseas, and need to replace my shoes. The local suppliers only have one pair of Optimus (which already give me a little bit of space around the heel - and may stretch to give more?) and one pair of Anasazis (whose uppers are slightly tight across my third and fourth toes, but may stretch with use?)

Insight or experience appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:19 am 
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I'm no expert on the subject and I have neither of the shoes you mentioned, but I do have the cousins of both. I have a pair of those old anasazi lace-ups and also a pair of pontas lace-ups. The anasazis are not lined so they do stretch a bit. I think your "whose uppers are slightly tight across my third and fourth toes" problem will go away after 1 or 2 climbs. The evolvs are lined and therefore don't stretch. This means you better buy something that fits perfectly. The upside is that if you buy perfect fits they stay that way. I'd rather go for the anasazis - sure they heal cups are awful and they don't look so fancy and evolvs are more comfortable and bla bla bla, the anasazis just work better for some weird reason.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:54 pm
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Real Name: CityROCK
Evolv shoes are made of synthetic leather which will stretch only a small amount, 1/4 to 1/2 a size. Fivetens are made of cow skin, so they will stretch 1/2 to a full size.
So I typically recommend that you size Evolv shoes the exact same size as your street shoe size.
Having said that, the Optimus Prime model runs supertight. Even Clinton, Marijus and Andrew P went up 1/2 size vs. other Evolv shoes they climb with. Maybe Sharma is a closet sadomasochist.
I just called Mark from MMO - he owns both. He wears Anasazi Velcro size 6 and Pontas size 6 as well, but with the Evolv Optimus Prime climbs in size 6 1/2. Mark also said that you could even go with Optimus Prime a full size up. Call him on 021-683-6026.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Eerrhem, 5.10 Anasazi shoes are made from "Lined Cowdura synthetic upper" (almost a cow, but still synthetic :) - See the specs on the 5.10 website - Its a somewhat limited link, better to go in via fiveten.com

:idea: Cow skin = leather ?
:idea: Cowdura = ??

IMO: The Evolve shoes seem to be a half size smaller compared to the other shoe sizes. I normally wear size 7 climbing shoe, but I had to get my Evolves a half size up.
I haven't been wearing my Evolves long enough to say how much they stretch yet. Way back when... my Anasazi's used to stretch about a half size (rubbing water into the shoes made them stretch quicker)

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