Dyneema & Tape Knot

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Dyneema & Tape Knot

Post by Hann » Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:43 pm

I'm about to replace some slings.

For this I will need to Tapeknot dyneema.

I heard along the grapevine that 10mm Dyneema and Tapeknots are suspect.
Word is that a Double-Fisherman would do better.

Anybody know?

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Re: Dyneema & Tape Knot

Post by Johanm » Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:20 pm

I bought the purple and white dyneema tape a year back from MMO. Read al the stories about Tape Knots and Dyneema webbing on the web. Climbed with it a few pitches and retired it when this happened.

Used a piece of Dyneema Tape with a Tape Knot to rack my Trad gear on to keep it neat in my Pack before racking it on my harness. Gear got stuck in my bag and I pulled harder. The knot slipped and untied as I pulled harder. Gear all over the place.

There were very short ends on the knot. +- 3 cm. It was not checked ever, since it was tied. Knot was not pulled tight.

Made a home made gear sling (With gear loops!) with the tape after that. Double-Fisherman came loose after using it a few times. Also a very short end on the tape.

Only use Nylon Tape now, or sewn Dyneema slings.

Maybe my knot tying skills sucked back then???? Who knows???? But this never happened to my with Nylon.

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Re: Dyneema & Tape Knot

Post by gollum » Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:19 pm

Needle Sports: "Dyneema tape should be professionally sewn"
Beal: "To make a sling or loop we recommend the double-fisherman’s knot, except for the Dyneema cords which require a triplefisherman’s knot."

Hard to find clear direction on this, and based on doubt and JohanM's failed experiment I'd go with Needle Sports' advice. Here are the two relevant links:

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/c ... 9e00a5f8ae
http://www.bealplanet.com/notices/corde ... ex-us.html

Hope it helps
"I have no more friends, and my nuts are too small!"

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Re: Dyneema & Tape Knot

Post by Hann » Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:28 pm


Looks like I'm replacing the cam slings with Nylon.

Thanks guys.
gollum wrote: Hope it helps
Ja, looks like you have just saved me or my climbing partner from a ground fall from some 3rd pitch.....

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Re: Dyneema & Tape Knot

Post by Larry Thomas » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:11 am

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/03/kno ... eema®-vid/

This video might answer a few questions about knotting dyneema slings

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