Sub 10mm Rope

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Thermophage
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Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Thermophage » Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:32 pm

Hey guys...

I'm looking to buy a sub 10mm rope for sport climbing and perhaps some trad later.

I have climbed with a few Edelrid ropes and LOOOOVE how soft and supple they feel and how smoothly they feed through a belay device.
Anyway, I've been looking around and found that the Edelrid Eagle (9.8mm) seems to be pretty nice.
Although I have also come across the Blue Water Lightning pro (9.7mm) which appears to be better (better reviews, lower mass, higher number of falls...).
Also there are the Mammut ropes which seem to always get great reviews, however it seems you do NOT get them in RSA...
Anyhoo, has anyone used the two above mentioned ropes and have a favourite? Pretumably they will both last a similar time with the right care. So the result comes down to the "feel". And as I have not yet used the Blue Water I cannot say which one feels better to climb and/or belay with.

Any other rope suggestions would also be welcome.

Cheers,
Cuan

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Thermophage
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Thermophage » Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:51 pm

And of course there is the Beal Booster iii 9.7mm.
But I have the Edlinger 10.2 which I am NOT happy with. It is very rigid in your hands and does not feel nice and supple...so I am a little apprehensive of Beal at this point...

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brianweaver
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by brianweaver » Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:54 pm

Edelrid is awesome... I have the 8.9mm Swift that I am testing. It's done 170 climbs, many of which have been hardcore working sessions with lots of falls.

The 9.4 Falcon is also a good option, it's lightweight and durable. I know that Paul from the Barn put it through its paces and it lasted a long time...
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

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Thermophage
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Thermophage » Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:58 pm

Yeah...every time I have used something made by Edelrid I've been WOW'd ... I have the uber-light Loopo harness they make...which is awesome as well :)
Even their cheapest quickdraws clip just as nicely and smoothly as my Petzl Spirit draws :S

shorti
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by shorti » Wed Aug 08, 2012 3:53 pm

Is it just me or does the Edilrid ropes wear very badly? Specifically the ones with the single pick sport braid. I have 3 of them (1 * 10mm hawk and 2 * 8.5mm shikras). I just think it's odd especially since they brag about how hard wearing it is and that it is ideal for our rock and the single pick sheath that's tighter and that makes it more hard wearing. All 3 my ropes are relatively new, but all of them show alarming wear. I'm beginning to think it is all nonsense sales talk. Tight sheath my ass too! It is very loose if you ask me, and I don't have much hope that they will last very long. What is true though, is the smooth and soft handling. Sorry for the negativity and maybe thread jack, I just thought I'd put it out there.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:15 pm

Hi

I've been down this road before with the Beal Joker. Get sport ropes for sport climbing and trad ropes for trad. You will need two ropes for trad in most of SA (routes aren't straight and one rope = rope drag) and the extra weight of the crossover sport/trad ropes is bad news. I really recommend you get a good sport rope and enjoy climbing with that. When you start getting into trad you will (most probably) be climbing with climbers who have all the gear already and not on your gear. Once you start to buy your own trad gear then get dedicated half ropes.
Happy climbing
Nic

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Thermophage
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Thermophage » Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:19 pm

Fo sure I agree on the two ropes thing.

But I primarily climb sport and VERY VERY occasionally climb trad. SO my primary focus at the moment is on a sport rope :)
Anyone want a well looked after Beal Edlinger? Or should I chop it for a gym rope? :P

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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:35 pm

i have two beal stinger 9.4mms - bought them originally for the exact same reasons (trad & sport). worked okay for trad on straightish pitches but eventually i bought proper half ropes to lower weight & drag. they are fantastic sport ropes though - feed like a dream, relatively hard wearing (sheath & number of falls), lightweight, works perfectly in the old grigri. a great sending / climbing @ your limit rope. highly recommended.
ps: edlingers are the bottom of the range beals so don't expect too much. and a 9.8mm rope feels (& often weighs) the same as a 10mm.

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Garreth
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Garreth » Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:56 pm

I have the Edelrid Hawk and the Eagle, I have climbing on the blue water rope as well. I still feel the Edelrid eagle is the best rope out there. Not only me but my climbing mates just love climbing on it. :thumright I still to this day have not been let down my My ropes. Ive had the edelrid ropes for almost 2 years now with lots of climbing on them. Still in good nick. I treat them like gold. Easy to clean and amazing to climb on.

One down side is that you have to Special order the Eagle as our climbing Shops in SA dont keep it in stock.

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Thermophage
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Re: Sub 10mm Rope

Post by Thermophage » Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:20 am

Geez all, thanks for the help.
What you said as well about a 9.8/7 handling like a 10mm is also very true.

So...what I have decided on is an Edelrid Falcon, 9.4mm :) I think it is going to be wonderful :D

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