MCSA Rock Sub Com News

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to

Post Reply
Posts: 91
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:36 pm
Real Name: Delaney Carpenter

MCSA Rock Sub Com News

Post by Delaney » Mon Jun 10, 2013 3:44 pm

Rock Sub-Committee Newsletter
June 2013

Hi Climbing Community,

Further to our latest Rock Sub-Committee meeting, we have decided to send out a bi-monthly newsletter following each of our meetings to keep you all informed of what is going on behind the scenes in our neck of the woods.

Bouldering EMP
Pending the finalization of the Bouldering EMP, the MCSA will be lifting our self-imposed Moratorium on Redhill on 1st July 2013. More information will be published closer to the time.
Site visits to Cecilia and Newlands Forests boulders still need to be setup with SANP who have been unable to schedule the site visits for a while now. In the interim, please respect the moratorium on Redhill until further notice and kindly carry the MCSA letter regarding Activity Permits with you when going climbing in case you are stopped by park rangers. The letter can be found at ... ermits.pdf.

ARF and Rebolting
It has been brought to our attention that both Kleinmond and Kalk Bay crags have some routes containing some rather old and dodgy bolts. We are in need of a team to assist Warren and Cormac to replace these dodgy bolts in both areas. We are looking at doing the rebolting in Kleinmond in July and Kalk Bay hopefully shortly after that.
Please can you email and if you are able to help and which dates you are available for the rebolting of Kleinmond and/or Kalk Bay.

Boschkloof Crag
The MCSA is working on re-opening Boschkloof crag but please be aware that this is a slow and delicate project. We kindly ask that all climbers continue to respect the no-go zone at this crag.

MCSA Meets
Further to a few Trad and Sport climbing meets that have taken place this year, we have found that there is a need for more. More people are interested in trying their hands at climbing and others are just starting at the sport and would like to learn more. We are looking for more volunteers to assist with one or both of the below types of meets:

Beginner’s Trad Climbing, including gear placement
First Trad Lead Climbing
Beginner Sport Climbing – top rope and lead

Please can anyone keen to lead any meets contact

MCSA Club House Wall Upgrade
Delaney has been leading the upgrade of the bouldering wall at the Club House and is in need of anyone who is able to assist with cleaning grips and/or setting routes. If you are able to help, please email and kindly keep Tuesday 2nd July open for the re-opening party and mini-competition. Details to follow.

Hey Dude Clean Up
Anyone keen to tag along to clean the graffiti off the “Hey Dude” wall at Peer’s Cave, please email

The Port Jackson Wacking Committee and The Mine Path Maintenance
The path to The Mine is looking a little overgrown and eroded and we don’t see it holding up too well now that winter has started. We are asking that all climbers going to The Mine carry a handsaw with them from time to time to trim back the Port Jackson’s growing over the path and forcing us to walk too close to the eroding edges. Niel will be organizing the path maintenance after winter and anyone who is keen to assist with this, please email All serious sport climbers should own a handsaw . Anyone needing more info, please contact or ask at your local hardware or gardening store. When cutting back the plants, please cut them at the base. Saws are available from MCSA Club House for R125.00. Kindly email if you wish to buy one. This is what Cormac and Robert own: ... roduct=130

Black Shadow Access
Delaney will be visiting Black Shadow boulders again in July to take pictures of the graffiti that is not to be removed due to historical significance. We will be needing a crew to help us block off the unofficial paths, mark the official paths with cairns, mend the broken fence and clean the graffiti off the boulder. Please can anyone who is able to assist contact We are planning on doing the clean up and maintenance around Rock Stock when everyone will be in the neighbourhood anyway.

Rocklands State
If anyone is heading to Rocklands in the next few weeks, please contact if you are able to take something to Thys from the MCSA to assist with the littering and unashamed defaecating which has been taking place more and more frequently in Rocklands.

SANP and Trad
SANP is trying to implement an activity permit requirement for trad climbing. The MCSA is firmly against this and is currently dealing with the issue. Please ensure that all climbers carry the Activity Permit letter from the MCSA with them when climbing in case of any run ins with rangers. The letter can be downloaded from ... ermits.pdf. Hard copies will be available on the MCSA wall at City Rock Climbing gym.

The next Rock Sub-Committee Newsletter will be coming out 1st August 2013.

All queries regarding the above to be sent

If anyone has any information or requests that you feel the Rock Sub Committee should be aware of, please email

Post Reply