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"Divine Time" a new route at Yellowwood

Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:47 pm
This must be the most improbable route in my climbing career. It is definitely 5* quality in the YW context.

It intricately finds its way through some of the most outrageously steep and overhanging rock at a very do-able grade of 19. What is more, the gear placements and the rock quality is excellent and mostly Tafelberg quality. The climbing is consistently excellent.

Deon and I repeated it with Robert Breyer today to see if any refinement was necessary. Indeed none was. We did the whole route in 4 pitches but this requires using many slings to reduce drag and frugal gear placements. It is probably best to do it in 6 pitches as both the 1st and 2nd pitches are otherwise longer than 50m. We then also fashioned a very elegant abseil route which consists of 3 threads and one sling over a horn (kept in place by a rock so it does not blow off). This is denoted in Blue on the Topo.

The route does indeed provide one with a helluva good time (the original name) but I decided it required an upgrade to "Divine Time".

Please send me a pm or email me if you want a high res photo of the topo which will be useful if you wish to do the route. I carried up a big EOS Cannon Camera with a BEEG lens today so it is about 10megs.

Will upload to the WIKI tomorrow

Re: "Divine Time" a new route at Yellowwood

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 6:21 am
by johannlanz
Looks good, Snort. Looking forward to getting up there and doing it.

Re: "Divine Time" a new route at Yellowwood

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:20 pm
by ant
Johann Lanz and I did Divine Time yesterday.

Well done Snort on a gem find.
You keep waiting to be spat off by the grade 23 move, except it never arrives.

We can vouch for the grade 19 (no more nor less) The pitches are grade 19 from start to end.
The gear is always good, although it still has a Yellowwood 'wow' factor so one should not take it lightly.

The 2nd pitch is 6-star.

We have made a few minor edits to the topo to assist future parties.

Re: "Divine Time" a new route at Yellowwood

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:17 am
by johannlanz
I was lucky to loose rock paper scissors at the base because it gave me the lead on the 2nd pitch, which I reckon is one of the best pitches of climbing I have done anywhere. Its steep, intimidating, long, sustained and committing with awesome moves on rock of brilliant quality. If I didn't know it went at 19, I would have been a lot more intimidated under the roof than I was (and would have put in a lot more gear!). The second pitch is definitely the pitch of the route, but the whole route is cool. And with the very convenient and pleasant descent it makes an unusually relaxed day for Yellowwood. But still don't underestimate it. Thanks Ant - good route for our first shared rope together. Upwards from here.

Re: "Divine Time" a new route at Yellowwood

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:47 am
Ant/ Johann

Thanks for the heads up on the route. When Deon and I did it, and as you can see from my post, we were blown away at the quality. But we all tend to fall in love with our own routes so I am rather stoked that you guys having done it and independently and on-sight enjoyed it too. That is always the test.

Yellowwood main amphitheatre trad routes very very rarely have had independent on-sight ascents. In fact I cannot remember any over the last 18 years except for Prime Time Direct by Jonathan Hajos and Mike Baleta. Lots of people have messed around on Armageddon Time but on-sight flashes have been rare. And there is good reason for it. They all have R or x pitches. And are scary and hard.

Divine Time seems scary and looks hard but it simply works well with the gear and I think one would be very unlucky to hurt yourself. There are many routes on TM that are far more sketchy. So it is definitely the one to start with and a really good intro to YW.

Extra Time is just as good but obviously harder but definitely still less scary than the routes on the main wall; again because the gear is so good. There is just one 3/4m section at the start of pitch 3 that requires some careful stemming as the gear is scant and the rock quality a little dodge. However it is only grade 18 or so. Most of the climbing is 17/18/19 except the dihedral which is 21/22 and the overhang which is 23 to point but probably 24 to flash without beta. The gear is bomb proof in the dihedral and easy to place. The run-out you see on my facebook pic is because it gets easier and one can lace it above the crux if you feel a bit wobbly.

You can plan all the gear from the bottom of the dihedral. The overhang is also very easy to protect before committing to the move. So go give it a go sometime. Or join me as I have yet to point the OH.