- You fall off the front steps of the gym
- People ask if you're a park ranger
- You've had to be rescued off a top-rope.
- Your team uses you to \"test\" for avalanche stability
- If you find yourself repeatedly yelling \"FALLING!!\"...........on the approach

Clues your climbing partner might be dangerous

* You often hear the faint clinking of Tequila bottles whenever he racks up.
* Complains about cigarette burns making his rope \"a b!tch\" to rappel on.
* Commands such as \"Slack\" and \"Tension\" must often be prefaced with \"HEY! WAKE UP!\".
* Always 20 minutes late because he has to unwind climbing rope from Jeep winch.
* On first night out in double portaledge, awakens you at 3am wondering \"hypothetically\" if Spectra would be damaged by spilled battery acid.
* Uses the words \"granny knot\" and \"bomber\" in the same sentence.
* After fifth pitch, asks for water to wash down the Prozac.
* Prefers clapping to give encouragement while belaying.

From phoenixrockgym.com

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Climb ZA - Administrator

But.... I've never been to Phoenix Rock Gym! How'd they hear about this??

Ja, scary thought JonoJ... especially since I am often at the other end of your rope!

Presumably this is only a problem when an auto-locking device isn't being used?

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You have an opinion, so do I. When these differ, please don't confuse your opinion with the truth, nothing is absolute.

Exactly the attitude why many climbers refuse to be belayed on an autolocker, or to be more precise, an assisted belay device.

Oh dear

If we're into pedantic precision you should probably refer to a mechanically-assisted belay device, but I admit that you do make a fair point. +1 to Hann.

How tiresome that I have to carefully consider each post in case someone with limited experience takes the rubbish I spew forth to be International Best Practice. In future I'll try to clearly demarcate 'tongue-in-cheek' comments as such.

Go safely.

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You have an opinion, so do I. When these differ, please don't confuse your opinion with the truth, nothing is absolute.

I'll add some more spew

In my personal experience (thats my disclaimer btw) I completely trust my Grigri to hold when my hands are off it / not holding the rope (which btw again, is against the manufacturers instructions)
I will do this when I deem it safe to do so (when the surrounds are clear of obstacles and nothing will interfere with the device. Rope diameter, rope age and much more can make a difference to other factors)

I normally don't hold the rope when:
- Giving beta and showing the person on lead how to do a move
- When taking photos
- While eating or drinking
- If I have fallen asleep (this was on an aid route)
- Am looking for something in my bag (food, camera, etc)

After all, I already trust seatbelts in cars

I am however very weary of Grigri's being used in gyms - have heard stories and have had close calls while being belayed with a Grigri (I assume its the lack of friction)

Here is a link to a Climbing.com Tech Tip A faster belay using Mechanical-assist belay devices

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Climb ZA - Administrator