Need Magalies Trad help

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Forket
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Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Forket » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:15 am

So this holiday im staying in pretoria to make full benefit of the Magaliesberg. Since nobody is doing it, im looking for a hard(30 and up) trad route in the berg that has BOMMER placements or even a line thats been undone and waiting for a send. Looking for a relatively overhanging route, single pitch and the shorter the better:P

Ebert Nel
this might sound like an "over my head idea", but with or without the help ill find it and do it:D

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brianweaver
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by brianweaver » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:18 am

Twilight Floozie has two bolts and is really good.

Twilight Beauty looks scary as could be due to rusty pegs.

I'm sure there is some blankness somewhere looking to be put up but good luck finding good placements and hard climbing. When you find something call me
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

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Forket
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Forket » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:07 am

the problem with twilight floozie is its a sport line:l there is no chance u can call it a trad line:P 2 bolts in the crux and one placement underneath, but thats #1 on my list:D

Ebert Nel
stormwatch is the best line ive been on

Hector
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Hector » Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:03 pm

Only routes I know of go up to about 27. But they're a good start. Climb a couple of those and you'll have a better idea where to look for your own line.
Some that come to mind: Rhythm of Youth in Boulder (27), Twist and Shout (27) in Cederberg, Rivers of Rain (27) in Mhlabs, Sea of Madness (26) in Kranskloof. You may find some of these harder than you'd expect, but I've been told you enjoy that sort of thing...

Hector
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Hector » Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:09 pm

Oh yes, there's a very hard looking unclimbed line immediately right of Vortex in Mhlabs.

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Forket
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Forket » Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:58 pm

Thanks Hector, ill look into it, myt b in touch sooner than later as i know you are the man of the berg:D

Ebert Nel
:jocolor:

thebest
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by thebest » Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:40 pm

hector is there a better rout guide for the kloofs than the rig bound ones of the mcsa or the South African Climbing Information Network one or is rout finding just part of the fun

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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Hector » Fri Nov 09, 2012 12:33 pm

There's nothing new published, but there are rumours of some updated guides somewhere on a jhb harddrive. New guide or no, kloof route finding will always be tricky. Trees and scrambly bases mean you seldom get a clear view of your line. Yet more motivation to go climb the classics first. The 5* lines are usually pretty obvious, and if you can climb 8a then you have a host of easier routes to choose from...
Not to undermine your psyche and enthusiasm, but there is huge value in climbing many, many trad climbs of all grades before launching into projecting some desperate testpiece. If nothing else it'll give you an open mind about what you can and can't do with gear. Part of the attraction of climbing hard trad routes is realising that there might be sections of the climb where you're not allowed to fall, and using your imagination to overcome that. You might struggle to find the route with bomber gear that you seek, but you could well find one with sections of marginal gear that will give you a very different experience from your favorite 'boven project.
Be safe dude.

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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Chris F » Fri Nov 09, 2012 1:52 pm

I always found gear placements a bit sketchy on the glassy Magalies quartzite tbh, and never happy to run things out that much.

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Forket
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Re: Need Magalies Trad help

Post by Forket » Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:30 pm

Thanks Hector, i fully understand the dangers that come with heights, thats why multi pitch isnt for me (serious fear of height), on the other hand, I will climb all the classics, but they will only be mere motivation for something harder. Not to offend anybody but i find it wasting time if im not pushing myself to my limits as you can do the rest when u old. I was asked by Warren in oudshoorn, why only climb the hard routes, an easy answer comes to mind, its effort getting up easy routes, harder is what drives my clock and will to crush. I also do know that my trad experience is low and it will take time to get it up there, but top roping a short seriously hard line is the safe way and once u can crush it closed eyes, gear placement means nothing, boulderpad in hand and psyche, some climbers even leave the gear on the ground. In the end of the day, if there is one micronut placement, its still a trad route and if falling isnt an option, the one placement is just so that u can say i climbed that on trad coz they said we couldnt bolt it:P ( and then its the repeaters problem)

ebert Nel
if u in pretoria, we bouldering at 5 30 on tuks sports grounds, come check it out, the youth is getting stronger, the students even more so

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