BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Boondock
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BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Boondock » Tue May 16, 2017 10:55 am

So when I bought my trad rack second hand, there was a BD number 4 included in the mix. Since then, I have only once taken it with me on a climb (it's quite bulky and heavy). Recently I felt compelled to take it with because I had never used it before, but had to look really hard to find a placement!

My question is this: does anyone have any experience with specific routes where a number 4 would be really useful? For instance, when I climbed Roulette I reckon a number 4 would be quite nice (I didn't have it) to have a few metres left of the crux move, mainly to protect the second. Having some beta like this would be nice, because carrying it is quite a schlepp.

Lekka.
Berge! Skoonheid sonder Perke!

Heavy
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Heavy » Tue May 16, 2017 11:08 am

Energy Crisis Wolfberg

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue May 16, 2017 11:42 am

Day of the Jackal Wolfberg
Africa Cracks on TM (would be a nice to have)
Happy climbing
Nic

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Xenomorph
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Xenomorph » Tue May 16, 2017 2:36 pm

Scottini's Chimney, LH Granite
18 Crack on Encore, LH Granite (Actually all Encore routes, I think there are 3/4)
Bastille Crack, LH Granite
#4 and 5 useful, without big cams scare factor is high!
Also Red Revolution, Wolfberg

Cormac

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Justin
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Justin » Tue May 16, 2017 2:41 pm

Oceans of Air (Tafelberg). You ideally want two :thumleft:
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mokganjetsi
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by mokganjetsi » Tue May 16, 2017 4:56 pm

luckily our cracks tend to be uneven so a variety of options are often available. all things equal i'd rather carry 2 x #2 / #3s than a #4 - unless climbing the mentioned routes.

SNORT
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by SNORT » Tue May 16, 2017 5:34 pm

Fitzroy

oubaas
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by oubaas » Tue May 16, 2017 8:15 pm

Hey Jude (Blouberg offwidth pitch)

Boondock
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Boondock » Wed May 17, 2017 9:27 am

Thanks for the beta guys - very useful.
Berge! Skoonheid sonder Perke!

Don
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Don » Wed May 17, 2017 6:20 pm

Lastly maybe, you can use it as part of an anchor. (Rap in, back up to a slackline, etc)

BAbycoat
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by BAbycoat » Wed May 17, 2017 9:05 pm

As a rule of thumb ... if it's granite, get some beta to find out whether the #4 is needed. For other rock, leave it at home.

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Gustav
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Gustav » Thu May 18, 2017 12:08 pm

Good size to have for party tricks... :drunken:
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Chris F
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Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Post by Chris F » Thu May 18, 2017 12:10 pm

As a general rule any route that need a cam that size is going to be grim and best avoided! :lol:

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