BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Boondock · Post by **Boondock** » Tue May 16, 2017 10:55 am

So when I bought my trad rack second hand, there was a BD number 4 included in the mix. Since then, I have only once taken it with me on a climb (it's quite bulky and heavy). Recently I felt compelled to take it with because I had never used it before, but had to look really hard to find a placement!

My question is this: does anyone have any experience with specific routes where a number 4 would be really useful? For instance, when I climbed Roulette I reckon a number 4 would be quite nice (I didn't have it) to have a few metres left of the crux move, mainly to protect the second. Having some beta like this would be nice, because carrying it is quite a schlepp.

Lekka.

Heavy · Post by **Heavy** » Tue May 16, 2017 11:08 am

Energy Crisis Wolfberg

Nic Le Maitre · Post by **Nic Le Maitre** » Tue May 16, 2017 11:42 am

Day of the Jackal Wolfberg
Africa Cracks on TM (would be a nice to have)

NatureBoi · Post by **NatureBoi** » Tue May 16, 2017 2:36 pm

Scottini's Chimney, LH Granite
18 Crack on Encore, LH Granite (Actually all Encore routes, I think there are 3/4)
Bastille Crack, LH Granite
#4 and 5 useful, without big cams scare factor is high!
Also Red Revolution, Wolfberg

Cormac

Post by **Justin** » Tue May 16, 2017 2:41 pm

Oceans of Air (Tafelberg). You ideally want two

mokganjetsi · Post by **mokganjetsi** » Tue May 16, 2017 4:56 pm

luckily our cracks tend to be uneven so a variety of options are often available. all things equal i'd rather carry 2 x #2 / #3s than a #4 - unless climbing the mentioned routes.

SNORT · Post by **SNORT** » Tue May 16, 2017 5:34 pm

Fitzroy

oubaas · Post by **oubaas** » Tue May 16, 2017 8:15 pm

Hey Jude (Blouberg offwidth pitch)

Boondock · Post by **Boondock** » Wed May 17, 2017 9:27 am

Thanks for the beta guys - very useful.

Don · Post by **Don** » Wed May 17, 2017 6:20 pm

Lastly maybe, you can use it as part of an anchor. (Rap in, back up to a slackline, etc)

BAbycoat · Post by **BAbycoat** » Wed May 17, 2017 9:05 pm

As a rule of thumb ... if it's granite, get some beta to find out whether the #4 is needed. For other rock, leave it at home.

Gustav · Post by **Gustav** » Thu May 18, 2017 12:08 pm

Good size to have for party tricks...

Chris F · Post by **Chris F** » Thu May 18, 2017 12:10 pm

As a general rule any route that need a cam that size is going to be grim and best avoided!

Climb ZA

Climb ZA Forum | South Africa Climbing & Bouldering

BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?

Re: BD number 4 cam - where do I use it?