South Ifidi Pinnacle (E/13) Drakensberg

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Posts: 29
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 12:58 pm
Real Name: Allister Fenton

South Ifidi Pinnacle (E/13) Drakensberg

Post by AllisterFenton »


Heading out to climb South Ifidi Pinnacle (E) this weekend. Any recommendations for the rack? I'm thinking of going quite light as I'm pretty confident and a strong trad climber: 1 rope, a few draws, 5 cams (BD .4 - 2), 7 or 8 nuts, 2 hexes.

My real questions are about the approach and descent.

The rd says we will need to ab in (leaving a 50m rope fixed) and use that rope to ascend back to the escarpment. Would we be able to scramble around (up and down) in decent time or would the hassle of carrying the extra rope and gear to leave be more worthwhile than trying to scramble around? If we do leave the rope, how much prussiking is required and would jumars be a better plan?

Would we be able to do the descent abseils with a single 60? The longest pitch is 25m.



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Posts: 182
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:02 am
Real Name: Neil Margetts
Location: Johannesburg

Re: South Ifidi Pinnacle (E/13) Drakensberg

Post by Neil »


We did the North Pin many years back. This is perhaps a better line. Leaving a rope is much easier, the alternative to go across to the pass is a loooong way around. We prussic up but jumas better. The way down was a bit iced up, Ice tools an option on top rope as an extra, but not reliable ice.
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