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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:58 pm
Posts: 26
Real Name: Andrew Scott
I am planning to climb 'A Private Universe' in Du Toitskloof at the end of Feb.
I have a description of the pitches but that is all. I am looking for any other information and tips outs there...Drawing/Picture of the route, Gear requirements, Walk In description ect.
Thanks Andrew


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
View the Private Universe Topo on the Wiki

Post some pics in the gallery of the route - very keen to see what it looks like.
Enjoy :D

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:07 am 
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Real Name: OneDog
Photos & feedback please?! - from the RD it sounds delicious.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:08 am 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 375
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Pack light.
Take good rain gear.
Be as self-sufficient as possible (spare torch/cell batteries, spare fuel for stove, extra nutrition, 2-way radio helps)
Walk through the river in light shoes - much less hassle than negotiating a dry route.
Take spare socks.
Collect the bulk of your water from the last waterfall (marked by an old rope on the scramble) before the scree.
Vasbyt with the load to the base.
Expect lots of fighting with the pig on the first three pitches.
Expect at least one person to pee on the pig.
No faffing on the wall.
Be comfy climbing in the dark if necessary.
Tell WSAR that you're going.
Be amazed at the jaw-dropping beauty of the amphitheater!!!
Enjoy!

:thumleft:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm
Posts: 234
Hi Andrew,

Gosia and her partner wrote a story of their ascent. Check it out at:

http://www.capemountaintours.co.za/inde ... 37,0,0,1,0

The walk-out is quite a mission. Either 15 kilometres over the back to Bain's Kloof Pass else down to the col on the north side then back into the valley that you came from. This involves a long, exposed scramble. The first version is longer but easier. The second one is quite hard but a lot shorter.

Tony Dick, Tienie Versveld, Dave Birkett, Leo Rust and Snort turned one pitch from the top and rapped the wall. Pity, because the last pitch is so dramatic. The ab is complicated because you have to put gear in to stay close to the wall, otherwise you end up far out in space. Dave told me that he shat himself going off Tienie's thin ab cord 550m off the deck.

We put a comprehensive story in SA Mountain Magazine issue no.4. Also MCSA journal 2002 or 2003.

Have a good one Andrew!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:31 pm 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
FYI: If the link above does not display properly, view it with Internet Explorer.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:58 pm
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Real Name: Andrew Scott
thanks for all the tips...it looks like this is going to be an amazing climb


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm
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Andrew, a few more things:
1. A couple of etriers would be useful.
2. A wall hauler or some other device for hauling the sack. Our master hauler was Matt Sim who was wired using jumars, etriers, his body weight and pullies for doing the thing. But he still got trashed.
3. Take a seperate haul line.
4. The halfway bivvy ledge sleeps two on a sloping rocky ledge. I used a thin little ledge that I could just fit on, off to the right. Very dramatic position and very comfy. There's also a ledge around the corner to the left. I'm going to try to attach a photo that David took looking down between his legs. You see the blue ledge tarp. Then you can just make out the ledge to the right. On the left you can see me catching zeds on the ledge at the start of the next pitch. It's from this point that the climbing really warms up. Ten pitches done, ten to go.
5. A good way to do the route would be to walk up (3 hours) and do the first half of the climb on Day One. Day Two is the next ten pitches and the descent. No need to have a night at the base of the wall. Besides, you could have a really lousy night after seeing what you're going on to. Like sleeping at the base of a big alpine wall. Just arrive and do it.
If I think of anything else I'll say so.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm
Posts: 234
I couldn't figure this process out but Kieren's now sorted it for me. Here's the picture I referred to.


Attachments:
A Private Universe lower half.JPG
A Private Universe lower half.JPG [ 20.99 KiB | Viewed 591 times ]
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