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 Post subject: Montagu Trad
PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 593
By the Old English Fort and the Montagu Tunnel there's an interesting area.

Are there any existing trad routes?


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 Post subject: Re: Montagu Trad
PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1171
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
i've seen that spot so many times - drooool
there's a little house in the corner of the river bend (just out of sight on the pic) - was flooded a couple of years ago....
and that slab on the left of the obvious man sized crack looks fantastic - 50m+? the slab looks like bolting material however


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 Post subject: Re: Montagu Trad
PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3046
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Thats a beautiful area, with loads of rock. I haven't been in there yet, but have heard reports of a couple of bolts being there too.

From what I have heard the area is co-owned by four people. At present they do not want anyone climbing there. I'm hoping to change their minds sometime this year (a friend of mine who knows one of the owners is going to take me there).

Hann, there is another area soon to be put on display for all to see where there is loads of potential for Sport and Trad climbing + the owner is happy for climbers to be there.
Will let you know more soon :P

Also, on the other side of the tunnel there is:
Justin and Riki Lawson bolted a line called 'The Boer and the Brit' at The Fort (down by the river) which goes at about grade 21/22 - There are two trad routes (up the cracks) to the left of the route (there is a belay station about 20 meters up).

Also Dimitrie opened a new route at The Steeple (on the far RIGHT) - Pic below

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 Post subject: Re: Montagu Trad
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 896
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
If you are keen for trad there are 3 lines on the Dog Bowl.

The Dog Bowl is the east facing orange yellow face above and to the west of Mystery Crag that is visible from De Bos. There is a very obvious horizontal break about a 1/3 of the way up. Sport climbers will have difficulty distinguishing the individual lines above this break as there aren’t any bolts to prevent you from meandering. However, on inspection from a view point from the ridge that you will have walked up, the individual lines can be identified. It can be easily reached by taking the path up to Mystery Crag and then exiting left onto the ridge just before coming to Mystery. From left to right there are 3 routes: namely Slobber (24), Dog Bone (25) and Dog Food (23). The first ascents were done by Charles Edelstein during the winter climbing season in 1999. He was assisted by various wanna-be dogs including Adelle McCann, Nick Williams (UK) and Steve Bradshaw (jnr). They are long trad routes and require a comprehensive rack. The rock and the protection are excellent. Depending on the temperature the routes can be climbed in the morning sunshine or the afternoon shade. The grades are for on-sighting without “beta” which includes watching another climber doing the route. Dog Bone still requires an on-sight flash ascent and confirmation of the grade. It may be harder than 25. There are two sets of chains for lower offs. Slobber and Dog Bone share the chains on the left that are visible from below.


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