Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by jemtuck »

My mission for 2011 is Devils Tooth. Anyone out there with more info (beta/topos/anything!!!!) on Devil's Tooth. Any bolts, what kind of rack is recommended, please guys anything, I would hate to haul a full trad rack up that gully to find the route bolted, for example. Additionall,y the position of the Tooth Cave as I would like to overnight there before climbing next day.

Have a lekker New Year and climb safe!!


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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by amm »

Have a look at the MCSA Journal (approx 1985 or 6) for a topo of the route and approach.
(drawn by Adele Margetts)
But there is no doubt more recent info.
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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by douard »

Give a BIG thank you to Gavin Pekham and click on the link:

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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by DolphinDawie »

Just some more beta:

Approach: Follow tooth gully (in) the river. There is a short compulsory wade early on after which you can keep your shoes on. See attached pic for me with an unhappy face missioning up the gully. We had just tried to avoid the wade and wasted an hour in the bushes :)
Gear: Bring tat and a few long slings, as well as a light rack. The first 3 pitches can be climbed almost solely on pitons. The A1 (actually A0) bit goes free at 21ish. There are a bunch of unnecessary bolts on the top left over from some dude's arb tyrolean rig, but you can rap off them (yay!).
Strategy: You can actually do the whole shebang in a day. We drive to the park and slept outside the gate somewhere, and then started early in the morning. We were back in JHB having beers at the jolly at 9pm. We were quite surprised. I know that others have done it JHB to JHB in a day.

Have fun!
61692_1356292636671_1512142601_30752232_7525123_n.jpg (57.05 KiB) Viewed 5852 times
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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by jemtuck »

Thanx for the info guys, looking better and better all the time. I dunno about calling Alard arb!!! but never mind. Maybe getting too old to do it in a day.

Safe climbing

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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by RyanKarate »

Our 1st attempt at climbing the Devils Tooth, Drakensberg 2019 vid is live!

André Heydra told me about the tooth earlier this year, and how he has been dreaming to climb it since he was a kid. I never even knew it was climbable.

Andre and I trained together and set our sights on the tooth and its fairly mysterious gully - there is not a lot of info around that documents the approach and how hard/technical it might be...

Turned out pretty darn hard..

So here is a vid of our 1st attempt. Hopefully this will shed some light of how hard it is and what's actually in there for anyone else who may want to try it in the future - Waterfalls, massive boulders, steep smooth rock, numerous abseils and thorny grass from hell.

We haven't been to the top of it YET, so there is definitely some more sections of gnar that we didn't get to... Trying again next year March!

Helping People to the Top of Their Mountain
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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by AllisterFenton »

Dude, when you guys said you did that with 30 kilos.... each :thumright I was like :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Cool vid, shows the approach nicely. Gonna wait for your next one then mission with the video beta :pirat:
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Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Post by Rastaman »

Thanks for the vid.
Always a climb I’ve wanted to do.
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