Montagu Trad

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Montagu Trad

Post by Hann » Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:25 pm

By the Old English Fort and the Montagu Tunnel there's an interesting area.

Are there any existing trad routes?
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Re: Montagu Trad

Post by mokganjetsi » Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:36 pm

i've seen that spot so many times - drooool
there's a little house in the corner of the river bend (just out of sight on the pic) - was flooded a couple of years ago....
and that slab on the left of the obvious man sized crack looks fantastic - 50m+? the slab looks like bolting material however

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Re: Montagu Trad

Post by Justin » Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:24 pm

Thats a beautiful area, with loads of rock. I haven't been in there yet, but have heard reports of a couple of bolts being there too.

From what I have heard the area is co-owned by four people. At present they do not want anyone climbing there. I'm hoping to change their minds sometime this year (a friend of mine who knows one of the owners is going to take me there).

Hann, there is another area soon to be put on display for all to see where there is loads of potential for Sport and Trad climbing + the owner is happy for climbers to be there.
Will let you know more soon :P

Also, on the other side of the tunnel there is:
Justin and Riki Lawson bolted a line called 'The Boer and the Brit' at The Fort (down by the river) which goes at about grade 21/22 - There are two trad routes (up the cracks) to the left of the route (there is a belay station about 20 meters up).

Also Dimitrie opened a new route at The Steeple (on the far RIGHT) - Pic below

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Re: Montagu Trad

Post by SNORT » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:02 am

If you are keen for trad there are 3 lines on the Dog Bowl.

The Dog Bowl is the east facing orange yellow face above and to the west of Mystery Crag that is visible from De Bos. There is a very obvious horizontal break about a 1/3 of the way up. Sport climbers will have difficulty distinguishing the individual lines above this break as there aren’t any bolts to prevent you from meandering. However, on inspection from a view point from the ridge that you will have walked up, the individual lines can be identified. It can be easily reached by taking the path up to Mystery Crag and then exiting left onto the ridge just before coming to Mystery. From left to right there are 3 routes: namely Slobber (24), Dog Bone (25) and Dog Food (23). The first ascents were done by Charles Edelstein during the winter climbing season in 1999. He was assisted by various wanna-be dogs including Adelle McCann, Nick Williams (UK) and Steve Bradshaw (jnr). They are long trad routes and require a comprehensive rack. The rock and the protection are excellent. Depending on the temperature the routes can be climbed in the morning sunshine or the afternoon shade. The grades are for on-sighting without “beta” which includes watching another climber doing the route. Dog Bone still requires an on-sight flash ascent and confirmation of the grade. It may be harder than 25. There are two sets of chains for lower offs. Slobber and Dog Bone share the chains on the left that are visible from below.

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Re: Montagu Trad

Post by jonomaloni » Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:07 pm

Hi Guys
I looked at the route potential in that area (Kalkoen-Nes) a long time ago. I was in contact with both parties. There are two houses in there. One you can see from the road, this is owned by a group of people. They were open to sport routes and I had a good look at the potential, but left due to the fact that there is very little. The other house, a bit further to the right is owned by Charles Torrance, if I remember correctly. He allowed me to have a look at the cliffs and also told me about the guys that needed to be rescued after a big rock fall. The cliffs look nice from far, but are far from nice! Getting to them will be a huge mission with a river and some very ugly scrambling. Charles said he does not mind people trad climbing there as long as they ask and could rescue them selves. I never went back and focussed on other bits of rock. Kalkoen-Nes would not be worth any effort. Isn't there more potential on Cogmans???? The rock is much better up there.
Cheers Stu

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