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 Post subject: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:40 pm
Posts: 2
Real Name: Rainer Pausewang
Hey guys! I would like to climb the Maltese Cross, but I don't want to carry all my equipment all the way uphill. Does anybody know what exactly is necessary for the climb (Original Route, Direct Route), i.e. cams, wires?
Cheers!


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 Post subject: Re: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 766
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Hi

The original route has sketchy gear. You will need a #2 or #3 stopper (take some small nuts) for the first piece, a thin (dyneema) sling for a little chicken head, then there is a rusty piton before the left traverse, then a 0.75 camalot for a pocket on the traverse and there is a good piton at the extreme left hand edge of the traverse. Take some tat for the rap point too.

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Nic


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 Post subject: Re: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2987
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Grade is about 16 and you can do it with a single rope.

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 Post subject: Re: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:54 pm
Posts: 287
Real Name: CityROCK
roue topo is in Tony's Cederberg Guide book. the Wolfberg one. R130. i remember a small alien being useful lower down. and the standard route is grade 18, not 16.
and yes CapeNature apparently doesnt want you to climb the thing, but i won't tell if you won't tell.


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 Post subject: Re: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:40 pm
Posts: 2
Real Name: Rainer Pausewang
Thanks a lot!


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 Post subject: Re: Maltese Cross
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 593
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Is the poor thing still covered in heaps of messy ab tat? There must have been at least a dozen bits in various states when I did it (early 1996*). Do everyone a favour and cut off all the skanky bits and take them home. Place one bit of your own and, if you must, leave one other best looking bit.

This will make it nicer for everyone to look at, and might soften Cape Nature up a bit about climbers leaving it in a mess.

* for all I know it might be free of tat at the moment and if so ignore my bletherings.

FWIW I thought it was fun for a tick, but you can walk the same distance to better rock climbs in the area. IMO.


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