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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
At the risk of seeming pedantic, I’d like to draw your attention to the picture of Blizzard on the homepage. Anyone who knows the problem will tell you that the climber is avoiding all the difficult bits by using the left hand arête. The problem starts on the sloper, then moves diagonally right to the big jug at the top (his LH should be on the edge his RH is on).

Blizzard is not contrived, he’s just doing a different problem, which I'll name Gentle Breeze.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 375
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
So noted. Now I know for next time. Cool, so can I claim first ascent of Gentle Breeze - 6whatever?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
The FA is yours - well done. Please tell Stewart Noy so that he can include it in his upcoming Peninsula Bouldering Guide. Which will hopefully be available before I'm too old to climb.

Incidentally, there is a lower start to Blizzard. Start with both hands on the jug on the slab, then reach under to the sloper and then to Blizzard. Makes it 7A+.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 375
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
How marvelous! My first FA :)

Ja, we started the problem like that..... killed my right toe hooking round the slab on the left to reach the second hold (slopey edge) of the normal 7a version. So...... for the proper problem.... once you've got the heel hook (as in the piccy)... .do you cross through with your left hand and get it on the tiny edge my right hand is on in the piccy,... and then deadpoint for the jug off that?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Ah discussing beta - what a great alternative to work.

From the sloper, RH to the good edge, heel hook LF on the sloper, cross your LH to the crimp, then move your LF off the heel hook and smear it just right of (and below) the sloper. Then pop RH to a gaston above and right from the crimp (use this to get your body higher) then pop RH again to the jug. Except for the first move, you don't use your RF.

Last year, I bashed my right index finger into the rock doing the last pop - and I ended up with an avulsion fracture... so be careful.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 375
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Hahaha...discussing beta is not an alternative.... it's part of my work! :) Well, sort of.

Cool..... hmmm, time to head back to the turtle area then. Shot Guy!! ... I think!! ;)

In all fairness, the FA of Gentle Breeze should go to Mark Cowen....... he bagged it before me.... I was just bemoaning the fact I thought I'd done Blizzard properly when in fact I was blown off, :cry: and trying to salvage some sense of pride - bah........ so Justin, before Mark jabs me in the head with the ice tool hanging behind me, change the new caption to 'Jono sending Gentle Breeze' .. :) :thumright


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:35 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:29 pm
Posts: 19
Is this "problem" realy worth a discussion?

While you are at it, why not reverse Blizzard then you will have more crap to discuss.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:03 am
Posts: 178
Location: Cape Town
nobody said you had to read it doos. dont be lame


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:11 pm
Posts: 127
Yikes jehlers, was that really necessary?!!
:roll:

Jono and Guy were having a lekker conversation! So it's like micky said... :arrow:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:53 am
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you a humble legend father jon.......who cares about the details. if you take out the joy of climbing then you doing it for the wrong reason.


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