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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 5:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 166
Hey Andrew

Ya, Simon opened up the Blue Horizon project at 32, I decided to upgrade The Doubting Game to 32 (since that move is bladdie hard), and Roger opened his Arete calling it Mango Tango, 31. Super looking line. Faye reckons her route is around 29/30 with some super fun climbing.

Oh, finally managed the moves on Helium Dreams before I left. Man, some of the coolest moves! Must be 34, minimum. If my sequences are right, more like 35. Open to any takers :-)

Get out there!

Paul


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 5:52 pm 
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Posts: 335
Thanks Paul, When I get back from the forested abyss (Brazil) later this year I will check out Mango Tower and Blue Horizon, maybe not Doubting Game thought as that move looks indeed very heinous (I watched Clinton on it whilst taking pics). I am also keen to start linking on Digital Warfare, pity you not around to join in, its the best line in the world in terms of aesthetic appeal. Andrew


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:13 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Who's that sending Amandla? Looks friggin' AWESOME!! Well done! :thumleft:

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:42 am 
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Posts: 164
It's some oke called Arjan or something. Never heard of the guy before :jocolor:

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Haha! Thanks for helping my ignorance mullet :cyclops:
Usually I read of high end climbers doing stuff on the limit of human ability and I'm like, "Wow, that's cool!", but I have no understanding of how insane it really it is.
I stood under Amandla a couple of weeks ago and my brain couldn't even compute how to get my feet off the ground! It looked impossible...
Respect Arjan!!

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1168
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
that is a SUPERB shot of arjan on amandla! but after a few hours on the homepage it is replaced with a pic of some building eish :?


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3032
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
There you go Willem - back on the homepage for your viewing pleasure :thumright

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Sweet shot. Again dare I ask grade? Looks in the 8s.

Actually that crack in the wall to his left looks a bit more my style! What does that get?


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:31 am
Posts: 53
Real Name: Geoffrey OConnell
8b+


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 722
Fred Nicole 8B+


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
:pukel: hard then.


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 166
Well, Faye got her project pictured last week! Grading it 29. By all accounts a classic line! Well done Sis! Bryan looks like he might just tie up Rodan. Nice pic, looks cold!


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 335
Well done Faye, stellar route judging by the pics, I want to climb it!

Yes Rodan getting a spanking Paul, that new beta of yours!! Joey thought v soft 8c so I think prob 8b+
:( oh well, its still the hardest in Boven...for now..

Andrew


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1168
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
what a brilliant pic of dylan on raptophilia! :thumleft:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Working a project at Wilgepoort. Pic by the Portage

Awesome pic - what is the grade expectation of the route?

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
That rock looks lovely.


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Posts: 105
Location: Joburg
23, if you can believe that Dancing on a High wire is 24 :twisted:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 354
"Routes that feel easy for the grade are. Routes that feel hard for the grade aren't."
Hehe. We got completely spanked the day before by Dancing on a Highwire (a Smith route). His words: "There was some grade compression in those days". Love it :lol:

Justin, its all fairly academic. No one will go try it no matter the grade. And yes, that is a challenge... :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:34 am 
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Joined: Sat May 27, 2006 2:10 pm
Posts: 133
Location: cape town
Yo yo yo shew, that picture of jimbo on Africa arête is beautiful... That climb is so aesthetic and beautiful top of my to do list.. Great photograph, looks like a great book so I just ordered one.

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Jimbo Smith grabbing the final jug on Africa Arete (25).
Photo from the book 'Cape Vertical' by Jeremy Samson


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:41 am 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Nice shot Douw :thumleft:
Makes me really look forward to visiting this crag

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Richard Halsey opening Big Green Coconuts (23), a new trad line at Houdenbek.
Photo: Douw Steyn.

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Hourglass pic takes me back! I think I did it in about 1991 or 2. Thrutched way up awkward first pitch, and then sweated my way up second in full summer sun with a tiny rack. Belayer sat on the ledge and fried, had to go lie in a pool afterwards to cool off.

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 354
Hourglass is a real classic opened by the Barley Brothers in 1969. Out of interest, there are a handful of stellar routes on this same piece of rock:
    - Sands of Time is the 19 slab to the left of the Hourglass crack (Smith, O' Meara, 1988)
    - Xtacy is the 17 hand crack out the RHS of the roof (Kruger, Giddy, 1985)
    - A Brief History of Time is the 24 thin face between Hourglass & Xtacy, topping out just right of the top roof (Colenso, Smith, 1988)
It's a better crag than Strubens but I couldn't say if the grades are "hard" or "soft" :jocolor:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 694
I just love that route and I've climbed all sorts of variations on it. It is funny as hell to watch short people climb it. The last two times I've climbed it the old way - big step over halfway up the cave, but I kinda prefer going all the way to the top of the bottom half of the cave and then do a really tight squeeze through the narrowest part. If you take a deep breath you can jam your chest and catch a rest (without breathing, you'll fall through). The conditions are absolutely perfect at the moment. The cave is bone dry and clean and it is pleasantly cool. Last time I climbed it with Marley (about a month or two ago) it was freezing! We thought we were clever to approach from the bottom of Lower Tonquani to skip the deep wade just stream up of Hourglass, but I forgot how many shallower wades lower down there were. Marley won the fight to lead first and I had to resort to dancing, jumping and jogging on the spot in the bottom of the cave desperately trying to warm my limbs :mrgreen:

Sands of Time is great climbing, but the gear is desperate!

Chris, I added more photos on my facebook page, if you are keen to see them, you are welcome to add me as a friend...


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:26 pm
Posts: 11
Real Name: Montie
With reference to the latest pic of Andrew somewhere in the freestate, that area looks really cool!!
Looks similar to Harrismith...possibly a new crag at Eagle mtn?
Would love a little info on the place... any ideas?


Simple, this is the tope pitch of power pigeon at Everest, see the huts in the back ground offered accommadation for the missionaries who stayed there. :afro:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 335
wow Ebert, thats a stunning pic of T pex, seriously really original, nice work. I never noticed that tree was so beautiful. DId you send the route? One of Willems le Roux's finest creations, solid at 27. Love the crux move to the 'spastic crimp' (sorry if thas a rather un-pc name but thats what the hold is known as!). Andrew

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Alex Bester climbing T-pex,27,Photo PW Nel


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 7:56 pm
Posts: 173
I see Stem Gem is now only an 18!!!!! I'm really getting old!!!

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Jeremy Samson on Stem Gem (22) at Paarl Rock
Photo by Stine (from the book 'Cape Vertical')


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3032
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Was wondering when someone was going to spot that.
The route has now been upgraded to 22 or G3 - Hope this makes you feel younger Richard ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 7:56 pm
Posts: 173
I'd be happier with 23 or 24! In fact I can think of far less painful 28's!


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
I know it's hard to take a bad pic of Ceuse, but that one is just great.

Cent Patates = Ten Potatoes? :?: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Latest climb pic.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
Posts: 554
Location: Waterval Boven
100, as in centenary?

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