Trad protection

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Ghaznavid
Posts: 366
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Real Name: Jonathan

Trad protection

Postby Ghaznavid » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:51 am

I am looking at climbing the following trad routes in the short to medium term:
- Up to grade 17 on the World's View crag (just outside Pietermaritzburg) - mainly Killer 1, Killer 2, Widow Maker and ZigZag (see http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/w-view).
- Up to grade 16 at Monteseel (any routes I can get my hands on)
- And my real goal - using the above to be proficient enough to lead routes up to grade E3 on Drakensberg rock (yes - I know how dodgy this rock is, thats why I want to be at least 4 grades up on it before doing these routes)

Basically what I need to know is as follows: I am on a tight budget but need to buy some pieces of trad pro, what are the pieces I am most likely to need. I plan to use large hexes rather than cams until my budget looks better.

Ps. If anyone out there feels like joining me on some Worlds View routes some time - let me know :bigsmurf:
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

DesPorter
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:32 pm
Real Name: Des Porter

Re: Trad protection

Postby DesPorter » Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:34 am

Have a look at when the route was opened. Most classics were opened before cams were invented, in the days when leaders did not fall, so nuts and hexes are a good start.

The Real McCoy
Posts: 29
Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:44 pm

Re: Trad protection

Postby The Real McCoy » Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:14 am

A full set of wires and a couple of medium sized hexes will get you up most routes at that grade at Monties.

You'll feel a lot happier with a few medium sized cams on your harness for the routes at worlds view.


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