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 Post subject: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
Hi there

I have seen that there is a route at Deadwood, but it is not in my Topo page, the routes name is Heat Wave I think its a 7A+ or 7B, does anyone know the line this route takes? :afro:

Cheers
Sheldon

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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Heat Wave was one of the first problems opened here. It was climbed by Mike Janata and shortly afterwards reopened by Marius and named Scissor something. It starts sitting in the rail and climbs up on slopers, exiting slightly to the left. Mkike graded it 7A, but personally I find it very hard for that grade.

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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
I do not understand the "reopening" reference.Can FA's be multiple for singular problems?I am no authority on the matter but this seems to be a predicament for reasons of sound logic.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 697
Logic's got nothing to do with it. The route was trad bouldered a long time ago and it wasn't written up in the then non-existent route guide. Trad boulderers also pretend to not care about FAs until some sport boulderer comes and retro boulder the route and give it a new name. The sport boulderer didn't know that the trad boulderer has climbed it before, so you can't take away credit for his effort, but the trad boulderer was first so he must get the credit. So you just reopen it. It's not that big a deal as long as you can also climb it. (If you sit down before you climb it you can reopen it again :jocolor:)


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
oh I see, scissor fight is in my guide, why was the name changed? I feel heat Wave is a pretty sweet name... :pirat:

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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Shorty,WTF are trad and sport boulderers?logic has everything to do with everything in an intelligible world.reopenings are by nature wholly self-defeating according to me.your arguement is completely nonsensical.one line,one fa.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 697
relax man, I was just screwing around...


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:24 pm
Posts: 11
just for clarity.....a "route" is found on a crag and a "problem" is found on a boulder.eg: a sport route or a boulder problem.for a boulderer to hear somebody call a boulder problem a "route" is like hearing somebody call a cam a quickdraw...it's just not on


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
I believe the worst thing to do whilst bouldering is to have ones chalkbag around ones waist.it is seriously un-irie.any thoughts on etiquettal do's and don'ts whilst bouldering?I think it is relevant with all the top international guys coming here nowadays for us locals to know what to do when climbing alongside these guys?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 93
Location: western cape
Real Name: Brandon
No walking around the boulders in your shoes shall be rule number one


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 723
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
suposed to be; boulder guides don't record FAs

as boulders are only intrested in the moves(minimalist/uncluttered)


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 378
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
You must definitely wax your chest. No-one will see your wicked definition if you have a bear's arse on your manly pecs! So when you're not wearing your chalkbag, climbing your problem in the presence of the top internationals you can look as cool as (in)humanly possible! Hell, go for a full BSC while you're at it... you just never know.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Marshall,hitherto your comments above are the most ridiculously outrageous I have come across on this forum!to get back to the bouldering etiquette issue,should someone shout and encourage on an attempt when not part of the party attempting a line,I find it very encouraging when people unknown to me urge me to succeed on a line?thoughts?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1171
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
bouldering etiquette aside, forum etiquette is to put your real name in the "real name" section.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:06 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Hi Mokganjetsi/Willem Boshof, I believe bouldering etiquette is much more important, in as much that it is actually significant, than forum etiquette, which should only be to not swear explicitly and be chronically and irresponsibly demeaning. In not disclosing my name I stay without context that is associated with a traditional identity and thus transcend the typical/atypical biases associated with the former,I find this refreshing and you find it annoying?Let us just put this circular argument to rest hey?

Should music be allowed when people are trying to boulder, what about giving beta when not asked for it?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1171
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Buyoil wrote:
I stay without context that is associated with a traditional identity and thus transcend the typical/atypical biases associated with the former

whatever dude. nothing like somebody using big words to talk k*k.
you are absolutely free to not disclose your name; it has however helped more than one person on occasion to think carefully about what they are posting on the forum. i do not find your anonymity annoying (as you seemingly presumed); what i do find annoying is your knee-jerk & rather sharp reaction to other people's postings.
take a chill pill bro

ps: music outdoors is uncool; as is uncalled for beta - some people want to figure it out by themselves.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:12 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Willem,I am not in the habit of compromising my discourse for the sake of unnecessary and ,quite frankly, irrelevant euphemisms. Too much sugar-coating and "nice" leads to insipidness and hyper-sensitivity.

I agree with your post-scripted thoughts, music should at best be playing in your ears through earphones when climbing outside. Would it be apt to ask a group of foreigners to shut their music down,we are the locals after all?

What is the accepted policy on flash-assisted photography whilst someone is climbing, can one snap away without consent?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:31 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1171
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
although i thoroughly disagree with your eloquent defense of being an asshole, i think we could leave our personal discussion for a private forum if you so wish. grace is the guardian of life and learning thrives on friendship.
yours in friendly and clear enunciation
mok

ps: no probs dude; happy climbing :thumleft:


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:42 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 723
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
On quick investigation(SA only) its (+-)3:2 ratio of boulder guides not-recording-FAs vs recording-FAs. It would be vaguely intresting to hear views on my statement from serious boulders.

"suposed to be; boulder guides don't record FAs, as boulders are only intrested in the moves(minimalist/uncluttered)"

Buyoil - "ridiculously outrageous" Why so ridiculously outrageous emotional? Take a deep breath & remember; its only rock


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 9:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:47 pm
Posts: 13
Real Name: paulgoddard
Mok , i fear 8a climber is back.... after 3 years at Oxbridge !!! oh hell, now he's a verbose arsehole !


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 9:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Marshall, but is it only rock, is it even rock at all?

My reference to your comments is reasonable and not emotional.

Your supposition is terminally flawed and your causality here applied suffers from the same fate.

A 2:3 ratio, drawn from a small and non-representative sample set, is supposedly proof of something you once claimed?

Back to bouldering etiquette, what about using pads that are left unattended for a couple of days?Would it be okay if you put it back where you find it?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 9:43 am 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 12:00 pm
Posts: 47
Location: cape town/ grahamstown
hahaha! Buyoil, you write like some of my second year students.. i'll tell you what i tell them: we mark for content first, style second.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
SMEG, strangely enough I tell my second year students the exact opposite,what are the chances?In this day and age style outweighs content.Get with the program, today's.

Bouldering etiquette, that is the issue at hand here, how about smoking,any form and product, in close proximity (<10m radius) to the bouldering action?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:25 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:10 pm
Posts: 143
Location: Durban, South Africa
Real Name: Scott Sinclair
Here's my opinion on a few..

Buyoil wrote:
Should music be allowed when people are trying to boulder, what about giving beta when not asked for it?

Music no. Beta in moderation.
Buyoil wrote:
What is the accepted policy on flash-assisted photography whilst someone is climbing, can one snap away without consent?

Get consent.
Buyoil wrote:
Back to bouldering etiquette, what about using pads that are left unattended for a couple of days?Would it be okay if you put it back where you find it?

Acceptable - if you put it back.
Buyoil wrote:
Bouldering etiquette, that is the issue at hand here, how about smoking,any form and product, in close proximity (<10m radius) to the bouldering action?

Poor form. Take your death sticks somewhere else.

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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:41 am
Posts: 716
Real Name: OneDog
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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:08 pm
Posts: 47
ok i haven't read all the other posts but here's my story, i'm not trying to steal anyone's problems (pretty sure i explained it to guy/mike way back as well :?: )

a short while after guy found deadwood, he invited a few of us over to join him for a session on the boulder. there were several lines that he pointed out as projects, including what would become scissor fight. i opened a few of the other lines but didn't try scissor fight that afternoon. the next morning, guy sent out an updated group email of the new lines we had done the previous day, and challenged us to open scissor fight. that same afternoon, i returned to the boulder after lectures and climbed/opened scissor fight.

about three or so months later, mike opened a problem called heat wave.


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 723
Hey Rob, not bad old boy. Not bad. Better than the last time at least :thumright


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Marijus, as a respected, well known and above all strong local boulderer, your views on bouldering do's and don'ts carry significant weight. What would you list as serious no-no's and do's when bouldering in and amongst larger crowds/strong internationals?

What about attempting a Stand Start whilst the Sit Start is also attempted?


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:37 am
Posts: 4
Real Name: Ryan Holl
fine to stand start whilst sit is in progress provided:
    no dabbing on the "seconder"
    give way to your left on dyno problems


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 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 601
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Etiquette Rule # 44. Even though a lot of people take off their shirts while bouldering, if you do it but keep your beanie on you look like a dick.

Rule# 45. If someone gives the hold a good brush and chalk prep and then prepare for an attempt, it's not cool to cut in before the attempt and grease up the holds, no matter how shit hot you are.

I would say a negatory on doing the stand while someone is attempting the sit, poor form and can be a buzzkill.

Left pads are there free for general use, provided they are returned to original spot. However practice of leaving pads should not be encouraged. Especially if a nearby animal is looking for a home (last time I left one behind a family of sea lice moved in!)


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