Route at Deadwood

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shedlon24
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Real Name: Sheldon Smith

Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Tue May 15, 2012 6:44 pm

Hi there

I have seen that there is a route at Deadwood, but it is not in my Topo page, the routes name is Heat Wave I think its a 7A+ or 7B, does anyone know the line this route takes? :afro:

Cheers
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

Guy
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Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Guy » Wed May 16, 2012 1:18 pm

Heat Wave was one of the first problems opened here. It was climbed by Mike Janata and shortly afterwards reopened by Marius and named Scissor something. It starts sitting in the rail and climbs up on slopers, exiting slightly to the left. Mkike graded it 7A, but personally I find it very hard for that grade.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

Buyoil
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Wed May 16, 2012 2:26 pm

I do not understand the "reopening" reference.Can FA's be multiple for singular problems?I am no authority on the matter but this seems to be a predicament for reasons of sound logic.

shorti
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shorti » Wed May 16, 2012 2:59 pm

Logic's got nothing to do with it. The route was trad bouldered a long time ago and it wasn't written up in the then non-existent route guide. Trad boulderers also pretend to not care about FAs until some sport boulderer comes and retro boulder the route and give it a new name. The sport boulderer didn't know that the trad boulderer has climbed it before, so you can't take away credit for his effort, but the trad boulderer was first so he must get the credit. So you just reopen it. It's not that big a deal as long as you can also climb it. (If you sit down before you climb it you can reopen it again :jocolor:)

shedlon24
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Real Name: Sheldon Smith

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Wed May 16, 2012 3:18 pm

oh I see, scissor fight is in my guide, why was the name changed? I feel heat Wave is a pretty sweet name... :pirat:
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

Buyoil
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Wed May 16, 2012 3:28 pm

Shorty,WTF are trad and sport boulderers?logic has everything to do with everything in an intelligible world.reopenings are by nature wholly self-defeating according to me.your arguement is completely nonsensical.one line,one fa.

shorti
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shorti » Wed May 16, 2012 3:32 pm

relax man, I was just screwing around...

outcast
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby outcast » Wed May 16, 2012 5:31 pm

just for clarity.....a "route" is found on a crag and a "problem" is found on a boulder.eg: a sport route or a boulder problem.for a boulderer to hear somebody call a boulder problem a "route" is like hearing somebody call a cam a quickdraw...it's just not on

Buyoil
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Wed May 16, 2012 5:44 pm

I believe the worst thing to do whilst bouldering is to have ones chalkbag around ones waist.it is seriously un-irie.any thoughts on etiquettal do's and don'ts whilst bouldering?I think it is relevant with all the top international guys coming here nowadays for us locals to know what to do when climbing alongside these guys?

smityb
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Real Name: Brandon
Location: western cape

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby smityb » Wed May 16, 2012 6:07 pm

No walking around the boulders in your shoes shall be rule number one

Marshall1
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Real Name: Derek Marshall
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Marshall1 » Wed May 16, 2012 6:53 pm

suposed to be; boulder guides don't record FAs

as boulders are only intrested in the moves(minimalist/uncluttered)

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proze
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Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby proze » Wed May 16, 2012 6:54 pm

You must definitely wax your chest. No-one will see your wicked definition if you have a bear's arse on your manly pecs! So when you're not wearing your chalkbag, climbing your problem in the presence of the top internationals you can look as cool as (in)humanly possible! Hell, go for a full BSC while you're at it... you just never know.

Buyoil
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Wed May 16, 2012 9:51 pm

Marshall,hitherto your comments above are the most ridiculously outrageous I have come across on this forum!to get back to the bouldering etiquette issue,should someone shout and encourage on an attempt when not part of the party attempting a line,I find it very encouraging when people unknown to me urge me to succeed on a line?thoughts?

mokganjetsi
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby mokganjetsi » Wed May 16, 2012 10:30 pm

bouldering etiquette aside, forum etiquette is to put your real name in the "real name" section.

Buyoil
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 7:06 am

Hi Mokganjetsi/Willem Boshof, I believe bouldering etiquette is much more important, in as much that it is actually significant, than forum etiquette, which should only be to not swear explicitly and be chronically and irresponsibly demeaning. In not disclosing my name I stay without context that is associated with a traditional identity and thus transcend the typical/atypical biases associated with the former,I find this refreshing and you find it annoying?Let us just put this circular argument to rest hey?

Should music be allowed when people are trying to boulder, what about giving beta when not asked for it?

mokganjetsi
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby mokganjetsi » Thu May 17, 2012 7:39 am

Buyoil wrote: I stay without context that is associated with a traditional identity and thus transcend the typical/atypical biases associated with the former

whatever dude. nothing like somebody using big words to talk k*k.
you are absolutely free to not disclose your name; it has however helped more than one person on occasion to think carefully about what they are posting on the forum. i do not find your anonymity annoying (as you seemingly presumed); what i do find annoying is your knee-jerk & rather sharp reaction to other people's postings.
take a chill pill bro

ps: music outdoors is uncool; as is uncalled for beta - some people want to figure it out by themselves.

Buyoil
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 8:12 am

Willem,I am not in the habit of compromising my discourse for the sake of unnecessary and ,quite frankly, irrelevant euphemisms. Too much sugar-coating and "nice" leads to insipidness and hyper-sensitivity.

I agree with your post-scripted thoughts, music should at best be playing in your ears through earphones when climbing outside. Would it be apt to ask a group of foreigners to shut their music down,we are the locals after all?

What is the accepted policy on flash-assisted photography whilst someone is climbing, can one snap away without consent?

mokganjetsi
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Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby mokganjetsi » Thu May 17, 2012 8:31 am

although i thoroughly disagree with your eloquent defense of being an asshole, i think we could leave our personal discussion for a private forum if you so wish. grace is the guardian of life and learning thrives on friendship.
yours in friendly and clear enunciation
mok

ps: no probs dude; happy climbing :thumleft:

Marshall1
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Real Name: Derek Marshall
Location: Port Elizabeth

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Marshall1 » Thu May 17, 2012 8:42 am

On quick investigation(SA only) its (+-)3:2 ratio of boulder guides not-recording-FAs vs recording-FAs. It would be vaguely intresting to hear views on my statement from serious boulders.

"suposed to be; boulder guides don't record FAs, as boulders are only intrested in the moves(minimalist/uncluttered)"

Buyoil - "ridiculously outrageous" Why so ridiculously outrageous emotional? Take a deep breath & remember; its only rock

paulgoddard
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby paulgoddard » Thu May 17, 2012 9:12 am

Mok , i fear 8a climber is back.... after 3 years at Oxbridge !!! oh hell, now he's a verbose arsehole !

Buyoil
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 9:26 am

Marshall, but is it only rock, is it even rock at all?

My reference to your comments is reasonable and not emotional.

Your supposition is terminally flawed and your causality here applied suffers from the same fate.

A 2:3 ratio, drawn from a small and non-representative sample set, is supposedly proof of something you once claimed?

Back to bouldering etiquette, what about using pads that are left unattended for a couple of days?Would it be okay if you put it back where you find it?

SMEG
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Location: cape town/ grahamstown

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby SMEG » Thu May 17, 2012 9:43 am

hahaha! Buyoil, you write like some of my second year students.. i'll tell you what i tell them: we mark for content first, style second.

Buyoil
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 10:07 am

SMEG, strangely enough I tell my second year students the exact opposite,what are the chances?In this day and age style outweighs content.Get with the program, today's.

Bouldering etiquette, that is the issue at hand here, how about smoking,any form and product, in close proximity (<10m radius) to the bouldering action?

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ScottS
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Location: Durban, South Africa

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby ScottS » Thu May 17, 2012 10:25 am

Here's my opinion on a few..

Buyoil wrote:Should music be allowed when people are trying to boulder, what about giving beta when not asked for it?

Music no. Beta in moderation.
Buyoil wrote:What is the accepted policy on flash-assisted photography whilst someone is climbing, can one snap away without consent?

Get consent.
Buyoil wrote:Back to bouldering etiquette, what about using pads that are left unattended for a couple of days?Would it be okay if you put it back where you find it?

Acceptable - if you put it back.
Buyoil wrote:Bouldering etiquette, that is the issue at hand here, how about smoking,any form and product, in close proximity (<10m radius) to the bouldering action?

Poor form. Take your death sticks somewhere else.
At the chaaaaains boet!!

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emile
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby emile » Thu May 17, 2012 10:39 am

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marijus
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby marijus » Thu May 17, 2012 10:52 am

ok i haven't read all the other posts but here's my story, i'm not trying to steal anyone's problems (pretty sure i explained it to guy/mike way back as well :?: )

a short while after guy found deadwood, he invited a few of us over to join him for a session on the boulder. there were several lines that he pointed out as projects, including what would become scissor fight. i opened a few of the other lines but didn't try scissor fight that afternoon. the next morning, guy sent out an updated group email of the new lines we had done the previous day, and challenged us to open scissor fight. that same afternoon, i returned to the boulder after lectures and climbed/opened scissor fight.

about three or so months later, mike opened a problem called heat wave.

pierre.joubert
Posts: 724
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby pierre.joubert » Thu May 17, 2012 11:00 am

Hey Rob, not bad old boy. Not bad. Better than the last time at least :thumright

Buyoil
Posts: 16
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Real Name: Buyoil

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 11:08 am

Marijus, as a respected, well known and above all strong local boulderer, your views on bouldering do's and don'ts carry significant weight. What would you list as serious no-no's and do's when bouldering in and amongst larger crowds/strong internationals?

What about attempting a Stand Start whilst the Sit Start is also attempted?

ryanh
Posts: 4
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Real Name: Ryan Holl

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby ryanh » Thu May 17, 2012 11:35 am

fine to stand start whilst sit is in progress provided:
    no dabbing on the "seconder"
    give way to your left on dyno problems

Chris F
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Chris F » Thu May 17, 2012 12:00 pm

Etiquette Rule # 44. Even though a lot of people take off their shirts while bouldering, if you do it but keep your beanie on you look like a dick.

Rule# 45. If someone gives the hold a good brush and chalk prep and then prepare for an attempt, it's not cool to cut in before the attempt and grease up the holds, no matter how shit hot you are.

I would say a negatory on doing the stand while someone is attempting the sit, poor form and can be a buzzkill.

Left pads are there free for general use, provided they are returned to original spot. However practice of leaving pads should not be encouraged. Especially if a nearby animal is looking for a home (last time I left one behind a family of sea lice moved in!)


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